up&up Moisturizing Hand Cream - Coconut Milk & Shea Butter

A robust, barrier-repairing hand cream featuring Ceramides, Petrolatum, and Keratin to deeply hydrate dry skin and strengthen nails.

Performance Rating: 4.6

This formula offers an excellent balance of hydration and protection. It utilizes a robust combination of Humectants (Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate) to draw moisture in, and powerful Occlusives (Petrolatum, Dimethicone) to seal it into the skin, which is crucial for hand care. The standout feature is the inclusion of a comprehensive barrier-repair complex containing Ceramides (NP, AP, EOP), Cholesterol, and Phytosphingosine, mimicking the skin’s natural lipid structure. Additionally, Hydrolyzed Keratin is a beneficial additive for strengthening nails and cuticles.

Safety Rating: 4.0

The majority of the ingredients are well-tolerated and standard in cosmetic formulations. However, the presence of Fragrance lowers the safety score slightly, as it is a common allergen and potential irritant for those with sensitive skin or conditions like eczema. Propylene Glycol serves as a penetration enhancer but can occasionally cause sensitivity in some individuals. PEG-100 Stearate is safe but typically avoided by those seeking ‘clean beauty’ standards due to manufacturing processes.

Final Rating: 4.4

This is a superior hand moisturizer formulation. It goes beyond simple moisturization by actively repairing the skin barrier with Ceramides and protecting against moisture loss with Petrolatum. The texture is likely elegant due to the silicone (Dimethicone) and esters, avoiding excessive greasiness despite the heavy-duty ingredients. It is an ideal choice for dry, cracked hands, provided the user is not sensitive to fragrance.

Verdict

This hand moisturizer presents a highly effective formulation designed to tackle the specific challenges of dry, overworked hands. At the heart of the ingredient list is Petrolatum, a gold-standard occlusive agent. While some may find it heavy, its ability to form a seal over the skin is unmatched for preventing transepidermal water loss, making this product particularly useful for hands that are frequently washed or exposed to harsh winter air.

What elevates this formula above a basic barrier cream is the inclusion of a sophisticated lipid complex consisting of Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, and Ceramide EOP, alongside Phytosphingosine and Cholesterol. These ingredients are identical to the lipids found naturally in the skin barrier. Their presence helps to repair the “mortar” between skin cells, restoring integrity to rough, cracked skin and ensuring long-term resilience rather than just temporary relief.

In addition to skin repair, the formula includes Hydrolyzed Keratin. Since fingernails are made of keratin, this addition suggests the moisturizer is designed to condition the nails and cuticles as well, potentially helping to reduce brittleness. To ensure the product feels pleasant and not just sticky, Dimethicone and Coco-Caprylate/Caprate provide a silky slip, allowing the cream to spread easily and absorb reasonably well despite the heavier occlusives.

However, users should be aware that the product contains added Fragrance. While this makes the application experience more luxurious for many, fragrance is a common allergen. Those with eczema or active dermatitis on their hands might find it irritating. Additionally, Propylene Glycol serves as a humectant and penetration enhancer but can occasionally cause sensitivity in reactive skin types.

Overall, this is a heavy-hitting moisturizer that is likely best utilized as a nighttime treatment or a protective glove against cold weather. It successfully combines the protective power of Petrolatum with the restorative science of Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid, offering a comprehensive solution for dry, aging, or damaged hands.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Base & Solvents / 基质与溶剂

🧪 Water / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: The primary base of the lotion.

📁 Humectants (Moisture Magnets) / 吸湿剂(保湿)

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Attracts moisture to the skin.

🧪 Propylene Glycol / 丙二醇

Purpose: Humectant, Penetration Enhancer

Concerns: Can be a mild irritant for very sensitive skin at high concentrations.

Notes: Helps other ingredients penetrate the skin.

🧪 Sodium Hyaluronate / 透明质酸钠

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: The salt form of hyaluronic acid; holds massive amounts of water.

📁 Emollients & Occlusives (Softeners & Sealants) / 润肤剂与封闭剂

🧪 Cetyl Alcohol / 鲸蜡醇

Purpose: Emollient, Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: A fatty alcohol that softens skin and stabilizes the formula; not drying like rubbing alcohol.

🧪 Isopropyl Palmitate / 棕榈酸异丙酯

Purpose: Emollient, Texture Enhancer

Concerns: Highly comedogenic (can clog pores), but generally acceptable for hand creams.

Notes: Provides a silky feel.

🧪 Stearic Acid / 硬脂酸

Purpose: Emollient, Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: A fatty acid that thickens the cream.

🧪 Petrolatum / 矿脂 (凡士林)

Purpose: Occlusive

Concerns: Greasy feel.

Notes: One of the most effective ingredients for preventing water loss (TEWL).

🧪 Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride / 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯

Purpose: Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: Derived from coconut oil and glycerin; lightweight and smoothing.

🧪 Coco-Caprylate/Caprate / 椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯

Purpose: Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: A plant-derived alternative to silicones, provides a light touch.

🧪 Dimethicone / 聚二甲基硅氧烷

Purpose: Occlusive, Skin Protectant

Concerns: Silicone based (environmental concerns for some), but safe for skin.

Notes: Forms a permeable barrier and provides ‘slip’.

📁 Skin Barrier Repair & Actives / 屏障修复与活性成分

🧪 Hydrolyzed Keratin / 水解角蛋白

Purpose: Conditioning Agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Protein helpful for strengthening nails and conditioning skin.

🧪 Tocopheryl Acetate / 生育酚乙酸酯

Purpose: Antioxidant

Concerns: None

Notes: A stable form of Vitamin E.

🧪 Ceramide NP / 神经酰胺 NP

Purpose: Skin Identical Ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Essential lipid for maintaining the skin barrier.

🧪 Ceramide AP / 神经酰胺 AP

Purpose: Skin Identical Ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Essential lipid for maintaining the skin barrier.

🧪 Ceramide EOP / 神经酰胺 EOP

Purpose: Skin Identical Ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Essential lipid for maintaining the skin barrier.

🧪 Phytosphingosine / 植物鞘氨醇

Purpose: Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: A lipid that helps the skin produce ceramides.

🧪 Cholesterol / 胆固醇

Purpose: Skin Identical Ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Works with ceramides and fatty acids to restore the barrier.

📁 Emulsifiers, Stabilizers & Thickeners / 乳化剂、稳定剂与增稠剂

🧪 Glyceryl Stearate / 甘油硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps oil and water mix.

🧪 PEG-100 Stearate / PEG-100 硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: PEG compounds can be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane if not purified, though cosmetic grade is usually safe.

Notes: Often paired with Glyceryl Stearate.

🧪 Carbomer / 卡波姆

Purpose: Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: Creates the gel-like viscosity of the lotion.

🧪 Sodium Hydroxide / 氢氧化钠

Purpose: pH Adjuster

Concerns: Irritant in raw form, but safe when reacted/neutralized in the final product.

Notes: Used to neutralize Carbomer to thicken the product.

🧪 Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate / 月桂酰乳酰乳酸钠

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Also functions as a penetration enhancer for ceramides.

🧪 Xanthan Gum / 黄原胶

Purpose: Thickener, Stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Natural sugar-derived thickener.

📁 Preservatives & Fragrance / 防腐剂与香精

🧪 Phenoxyethanol / 苯氧乙醇

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: Can be irritating to broken skin or sensitive eyes; safe in limited concentrations.

Notes: Widely used alternative to parabens.

🧪 Ethylhexylglycerin / 乙基己基甘油

Purpose: Preservative Booster, Skin Conditioner

Concerns: None

Notes: Works synergistically with Phenoxyethanol.

🧪 Fragrance / 香精

Purpose: Scent

Concerns: Common sensitizer; can cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals.

Notes: Provides the sensory smell experience.