This is the iconic Crème de la Mer, an ultra-rich, highly occlusive luxury moisturizer formulated with a proprietary fermented Algae Extract (Miracle Broth™) alongside heavy mineral and wax-based emollients to deeply lock in hydration and protect dry skin.
The formulation offers decent hydrating properties due to the inclusion of Algae Extract, Glycerin, and Panthenol, which act as excellent humectants. Heavy occlusives like Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, and Microcrystalline Wax excel at locking in moisture, making this highly beneficial for very dry skin. However, these heavy, potentially comedogenic ingredients can clog pores and cause breakouts for oily or acne-prone skin types. Furthermore, the presence of Alcohol Denat. and potentially sensitizing Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil can counteract some of the soothing benefits, limiting its overall performance rating to 6.9/10.
The safety score of 5.0/10 reflects a high potential for skin irritation and sensitization. The formula contains a significant number of known fragrance allergens, such as Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, and Benzyl Benzoate, alongside added Fragrance (Parfum). Additionally, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil and Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract are notorious for causing contact dermatitis and phototoxicity. Lanolin Alcohol and Alcohol Denat. further increase the risk of allergic reactions and skin barrier disruption, making this a risky choice for sensitive skin.
A final rating of 5.9/10 represents a classic, highly occlusive moisturizer that performs exceptionally well at preventing moisture loss in dry environments, but carries a high risk of skin sensitization. While ingredients like Algae Extract and various mineral gluconates provide great nourishing benefits, the heavy presence of fragrance allergens, essential oils, and drying alcohols significantly compromises its safety profile. It remains a polarizing formula that may work wonders for resilient, extremely dry skin but is highly unsuitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin types.
This formulation represents the iconic Crème de la Mer, one of the most famous and intensely debated luxury moisturizers in the global beauty market. At its core is the brand’s legendary Miracle Broth™ (listed as Algae Extract), a bio-fermented, nutrient-rich sea kelp complex designed to soothe irritation, promote cell renewal, and flood the skin with essential energy. However, the vehicle that delivers this active extract is a highly traditional, heavy emulsion. The cream relies primarily on a classic base of dense occlusives: Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Microcrystalline Wax, and Paraffin.
These heavy-duty ingredients are unmatched in their ability to form a robust physical shield on the skin’s surface. By dramatically reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), this cream effectively seals in hydration, making it an exceptional recovery treatment for parched skin in cold, dry, or windy climates. With the addition of Glycerin and Panthenol, it delivers immediate surface plumping, helping dry-induced fine lines look temporarily smoothed and softened.
Nevertheless, consumers must distinguish between a protective surface sealer and a modern physiological barrier restorer. This product does not actively repair the skin’s deeper lipid matrix, as it lacks key lipid-replenishing components like ceramides or phytosterols. It acts as a physical blanket rather than integrating into the skin’s natural bilayer. Moreover, the formulation features several botanical extracts and sensory additives that pose risks. Ingredients like Eucalyptus Leaf Oil and Lime Peel Extract, combined with a heavy concentration of fragrance allergens (including Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, and Citronellol), are highly likely to trigger irritation or contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals. Additionally, the heavy-wax base combined with Lanolin Alcohol presents a high risk of clogging pores and causing breakouts on congestion-prone skin.
Ultimately, this is a beautifully emulsified, ultra-rich classic occlusive cream that provides intense comfort for dry skin, though much of its steep price tag is driven by its heritage, prestigious branding, and sensory ritual. Those seeking fragrance-free barrier repair or modern active ingredients like retinoids or peptides may find better performance and value elsewhere.
🧪 Algae Extract / 海藻提取物
Purpose: Humectant, emollient, and skin conditioner
Concerns: None
Notes: The highly nourishing base of La Mer’s signature Miracle Broth, rich in nutrients and antioxidants.
🧪 Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract / 青柠皮提取物
Purpose: Antioxidant and skin conditioner
Concerns: May cause skin sensitivity or phototoxicity in high concentrations
Notes: Known for its powerful antioxidant properties to protect skin from environmental damage.
🧪 Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil / 芝麻籽油
Purpose: Emollient and skin conditioner
Concerns: Can be mildly comedogenic for acne-prone skin
Notes: A nourishing plant oil rich in essential fatty acids that helps repair and moisturize dry skin.
🧪 Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil / 蓝桉叶油
Purpose: Fragrance, skin conditioner, and antibacterial agent
Concerns: Known skin irritant and sensitizer, especially for sensitive skin
Notes: Adds a refreshing herbal scent but should be used with caution on reactive skin.
🧪 Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Powder / 芝麻籽粉
Purpose: Nutrient component for fermentation
Concerns: None
Notes: Part of the brand’s proprietary bio-fermentation process.
🧪 Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Powder / 紫苜蓿籽粉
Purpose: Nutrient component for fermentation
Concerns: None
Notes: Rich in minerals and nutrients to promote skin vitality.
🧪 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake / 向日葵籽饼
Purpose: Emollient and skin conditioner
Concerns: None
Notes: Rich in lipids and nutrients, helps soothe and soften the skin.
🧪 Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal / 甜扁桃籽粉
Purpose: Skin conditioning and emollient
Concerns: None
Notes: Nourishing ingredient rich in proteins and lipids to reinforce skin barrier.
🧪 Zea Mays (Corn) Oil / 玉米油
Purpose: Emollient
Concerns: May be mildly comedogenic
Notes: Nourishes the skin and provides a smooth glide texture.
🧪 Sodium Gluconate / 葡萄糖酸钠
Purpose: Chelating agent and humectant
Concerns: None
Notes: Helps stabilize the formulation while providing mild skin hydration.
🧪 Copper Gluconate / 葡萄糖酸铜
Purpose: Skin soothing and wound-healing promoter
Concerns: None
Notes: An essential mineral that promotes skin health, repair, and collagen synthesis.
🧪 Calcium Gluconate / 葡萄糖酸钙
Purpose: Humectant and skin barrier support
Concerns: None
Notes: Helps maintain skin barrier function and hydration.
🧪 Magnesium Gluconate / 葡萄糖酸镁
Purpose: Skin soothing and cellular energy
Concerns: None
Notes: Provides calming benefits and supports skin cellular functions.
🧪 Zinc Gluconate / 葡萄糖酸锌
Purpose: Soothing, antibacterial, and sebum-regulating
Concerns: None
Notes: Highly effective at reducing skin inflammation and fighting acne.
🧪 Magnesium Sulfate / 硫酸镁
Purpose: Emulsion stabilizer and bulking agent
Concerns: None
Notes: Also known as Epsom salt, helps stabilize water-in-oil formulations.
🧪 Tocopheryl Succinate / 生育酚琥珀酸酯
Purpose: Antioxidant
Concerns: None
Notes: A derivative of Vitamin E that protects skin cells from free radical damage.
🧪 Niacin / 烟酸
Purpose: Skin conditioning (Vitamin B3)
Concerns: May cause temporary skin flushing in sensitive individuals
Notes: Supports skin barrier function and brightens complexion, though less commonly used than niacinamide.
🧪 Beta-Carotene / β-胡萝卜素
Purpose: Antioxidant and cosmetic colorant
Concerns: None
Notes: A Vitamin A precursor that scavenges free radicals and protects skin.
🧪 Cyanocobalamin / 氰钴胺
Purpose: Skin conditioning (Vitamin B12)
Concerns: None
Notes: Soothes irritated skin and naturally gives the product a subtle tint.
🧪 Panthenol / 泛醇
Purpose: Humectant and soothing agent (Provitamin B5)
Concerns: None
Notes: Highly effective at attracting moisture and repairing the skin barrier.
🧪 Mineral OilLiquidumMinerale / 矿油
Purpose: Occlusive emollient
Concerns: Feels heavy; may clog pores for highly acne-prone skin
Notes: Highly effective at preventing transepidermal water loss and protecting dry skin.
🧪 Petrolatum / 矿脂
Purpose: Occlusive emollient
Concerns: Greasy texture
Notes: Commonly known as Vaseline, one of the most effective skin protectants for dry skin.
🧪 Isohexadecane / 异十六烷
Purpose: Emollient and solvent
Concerns: None
Notes: Provides a silky, non-greasy texture to help counterbalance heavier oils.
🧪 Microcrystalline WaxMicrocristallinaMicrocristalline / 微晶蜡
Purpose: Viscosity controller and emulsion stabilizer
Concerns: None
Notes: Helps form and stabilize the rich, thick texture of the cream.
🧪 Lanolin Alcohol / 羊毛脂醇
Purpose: Emollient and emulsifier
Concerns: Potential contact allergen for eczema-prone or wool-allergic skin
Notes: An excellent emollient that closely mimics the skin’s natural lipids.
🧪 Paraffin / 石蜡
Purpose: Viscosity control and occlusive
Concerns: None
Notes: Restricts water evaporation and thickens the formulation.
🧪 Decyl Oleate / 油酸癸酯
Purpose: Emollient
Concerns: Can be comedogenic for acne-prone skin
Notes: Leaves skin soft and smooth, but might trigger breakouts on oily skin types.
🧪 Octyldodecanol / 辛基十二醇
Purpose: Emollient and solvent
Concerns: None
Notes: Improves the spreading capability and luxurious skin feel of the cream.
🧪 Glycerin / 甘油
Purpose: Humectant
Concerns: None
Notes: A classic, highly effective skin-identical hydrator that pulls moisture deep into skin.
🧪 Water/ 水
Purpose: Solvent
Concerns: None
Notes: The basic carrier base for water-soluble active ingredients.
🧪 Citric Acid / 柠檬酸
Purpose: pH adjuster
Concerns: Can cause mild tingling on compromised or ultra-sensitive skin
Notes: An AHA used in tiny amounts primarily to optimize and balance product pH.
🧪 Aluminum Distearate / 二硬脂酸铝
Purpose: Viscosity controller and emulsion stabilizer
Concerns: None
Notes: Helps maintain the structure of the rich water-in-oil emulsion.
🧪 Magnesium Stearate / 硬脂酸镁
Purpose: Thickener, colorant, and stabilizer
Concerns: None
Notes: Enhances texture consistency and formulation stability.
🧪 Sodium Benzoate / 苯甲酸钠
Purpose: Preservative
Concerns: None
Notes: Inhibits mold and bacterial growth to ensure product safety and shelf life.
🧪 Alcohol Denat. / 变性乙醇
Purpose: Solvent and antimicrobial
Concerns: Can dry out or sensitize dry/reactive skin in higher concentrations
Notes: Likely used in very low concentrations to dissolve and deliver botanical extracts.
🧪 Limonene / 柠檬烯
Purpose: Fragrance component
Concerns: High potential for skin irritation and sensitization upon oxidation
Notes: A naturally occurring citrus aroma compound.
🧪 Geraniol / 香叶醇
Purpose: Fragrance component
Concerns: Common cosmetic allergen
Notes: Provides a sweet, rose-like floral fragrance.
🧪 Linalool / 芳樟醇
Purpose: Fragrance component
Concerns: Sensitizing agent, especially when oxidized
Notes: Imparts a soft floral lavender-like scent.
🧪 Hydroxycitronellal / 羟基香茅醛
Purpose: Synthetic fragrance
Concerns: High risk of contact allergy
Notes: Replicates a sweet lily-of-the-valley floral scent.
🧪 Citronellol / 香茅醇
Purpose: Fragrance component
Concerns: Potential skin allergen
Notes: Commonly found in natural rose and geranium essential oils.
🧪 Benzyl Salicylate / 水杨酸苄酯
Purpose: Fragrance and UV absorber
Concerns: Potential allergen
Notes: Imparts a sweet, balsamic floral note to the formula.
🧪 Benzyl Benzoate / 苯甲酸苄酯
Purpose: Solvent and fragrance fixer
Concerns: Potential skin irritant and allergen
Notes: Commonly present in natural plant essential oils.
🧪 Fragrance (Parfum) / 香精
Purpose: Masking and fragrance
Concerns: Can trigger contact dermatitis or irritation in sensitive skin
Notes: A mixture of multiple synthetic and/or natural scent ingredients.