EltaMD PM Restore Moisturizer

A barrier-restoring, fragrance-free night moisturizer enriched with niacinamide, biomimetic ceramides, and potent antioxidants to repair skin and improve texture.

Performance Rating: 8.9

The formula delivers exceptional efficacy powered by a potent concentration of Niacinamide, which visibly refines texture, evens skin tone, and fortifies the barrier. Deep, sustained hydration is achieved through a multi-tiered moisture network of Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, and Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum. Essential barrier support is reinforced by skin-replenishing lipids, including C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA, and Linoleic Acid, which mimic natural intercellular cements. Additionally, Thioctic Acid and Tocopheryl Acetate provide valuable antioxidant protection against environmental stressors, while Hydrolyzed Rice Protein enhances overall elasticity and smoothness.

Safety Rating: 9.2

This moisturizer demonstrates an exemplary safety profile formulated with high skin tolerance in mind. It completely avoids added synthetic fragrances, drying alcohols, and harsh essential oils, drastically minimizing the risk of contact dermatitis or sensitization. The preservation matrix, combining Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, and Sodium Benzoate, keeps microbial risk low at gentle, non-irritating concentrations. Furthermore, the inclusion of skin-identical fatty acids like Oleic Acid and Stearic Acid works synergistically with mild, non-stripping emulsifiers to soothe vulnerable skin, making the product exceptionally suitable for delicate, reactive, or compromised skin types.

Final Rating: 9.0

Overall, this facial moisturizer represents a sophisticated balance of restorative barrier function, potent hydration, and superior skin compatibility. By pairing high-performance active ingredients like Niacinamide and Thioctic Acid with an advanced lipid complex, it delivers measurable improvements in skin suppleness and defense. The absence of volatile irritants ensures that its deeply nourishing benefits can be enjoyed without fear of adverse reactions. The result is a highly dependable daily moisturizer that simultaneously addresses barrier repair, moisture retention, and environmental protection across a wide range of skin types.

Verdict

This facial moisturizer is an expertly crafted, lipid-replenishing cream designed to optimize nocturnal skin recovery without feeling greasy. At the top of the formula, niacinamide (Vitamin B3) works in tandem with silky emollients like ethylhexyl isononanoate to soothe irritation, regulate sebum, and even skin tone. The texture hits a sweet spot between lightweight fluidity and deep emollience, utilizing hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer for a gel-cream finish that spreads effortlessly and absorbs quickly, making it suitable for layering over potent active serums.

The core strength of this formulation lies in its barrier-repair complex, which closely mimics natural stratum corneum lipids. The inclusion of hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA (a skin-identical ceramide analog), C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, and linoleic acid helps replenish the physiological lipid matrix. These essential fatty acids restore cellular cohesion and prevent transepidermal water loss. Supplementing this structural support is hydrolyzed rice protein, which enhances cellular vitality, alongside thioctic acid (alpha lipoic acid) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) to provide robust defense against oxidative stress and environmental damage.

From a hydration perspective, the formula combines multi-tiered humectants with plant polysaccharides to deliver long-lasting moisture. Glycerin, glycereth-26, and sodium hyaluronate draw water into both the superficial and deeper epidermal layers, instantly plumping dehydrated skin. The botanical addition of Caesalpinia spinosa gum forms a breathable, hydro-colloidal network over the skin surface to slowly release hydration throughout the night. This ensures that dry or irritated skin stays continuously cushioned, calm, and supple by morning without suffocating the pores or inducing excess congestion.

Overall, this moisturizer stands out as an exceptionally well-tolerated and functional formula, free from added fragrances, volatile drying alcohols, and heavy comedogenic waxes. It is an ideal daily option for individuals with compromised skin barriers, redness-prone skin, or those undergoing sensitizing treatments like retinoid therapy. While the presence of sodium bisulfite warrants a quick patch test for individuals with specific sulfite sensitivities, the overwhelming majority of users across all skin types will benefit from its balanced, rejuvenating, and deeply restorative profile.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvents / 溶剂

🧪 Water / 水

Purpose: Acts as the primary solvent and base for dissolving water-soluble ingredients.

Notes: Forms the continuous phase of the emulsion and accounts for the majority of the formulation volume.

🧪 Glycereth-26 / 甘油聚醚-26

Purpose: Serves as a water-soluble humectant and solvent.

Notes: An ethoxylated glycerin derivative that imparts a smooth, non-tacky skin feel.

📁 Humectants / 保湿剂

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Draws moisture into the stratum corneum from the atmosphere and deeper skin layers.

Notes: A benchmark natural moisturizing factor (NMF) analogue widely used for its exceptional hydration properties.

🧪 Sodium Hyaluronate / 透明质酸钠

Purpose: Binds substantial amounts of water to hydrate the skin surface.

Notes: The sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, capable of holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

🧪 Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / 水解刺云实胶

Purpose: Provides sustained hydration and improves skin barrier moisture retention.

Notes: Derived from tara gum oligosaccharides that gradually release moisturizing components into the skin.

🧪 Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / 刺云实胶

Purpose: Acts as a hydrating film-former and secondary viscosity modifier.

Notes: A plant-derived polysaccharide obtained from the endosperm of the tara tree seeds.

📁 Active Ingredients / 活性成分

🧪 Niacinamide / 烟酰胺

Purpose: Enhances skin barrier function, improves skin tone, and reduces redness.

Notes: A form of Vitamin B3 that stimulates ceramide synthesis and provides anti-inflammatory benefits.

🧪 Tocopheryl Acetate / 生育酚乙酸酯

Purpose: Provides antioxidant protection against environmental free radicals.

Notes: A stable ester form of Vitamin E that converts to active tocopherol in the skin.

🧪 Thioctic Acid / 硫辛酸

Purpose: Acts as a potent lipid- and water-soluble antioxidant.

Concerns: May cause mild tingling or irritation in very sensitive skin.

Notes: Also known as alpha-lipoic acid, capable of neutralizing a broad spectrum of reactive oxygen species.

🧪 Hydrolyzed Rice Protein / 水解大米蛋白

Purpose: Conditions the skin and helps retain surface moisture.

Notes: Rich in amino acids and peptides that support skin elasticity and barrier hydration.

📁 Emollients / 润肤剂

🧪 Ethylhexyl Isononanoate / 异壬酸乙基己酯

Purpose: Provides a silky, non-greasy emollient finish and facilitates spreadability.

Notes: A branched synthetic ester offering a dry-slip skin sensory profile.

🧪 C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters / C10-30 胆甾醇/羊毛甾醇混合酯

Purpose: Repairs the skin lipid barrier and prevents transepidermal water loss.

Notes: Mimics the natural lipid structure of the intercellular stratum corneum matrix.

🧪 Linoleic Acid / 亚油酸

Purpose: Restores essential fatty acid balance in the skin barrier.

Concerns: Prone to oxidation if not protected with antioxidants.

Notes: An omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acid crucial for maintaining ceramide integrity.

🧪 Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA / 羟丙基双棕榈酰胺 MEA

Purpose: Strengthens the lipid barrier and soothes sensitive skin.

Notes: A synthetic pseudoceramide designed to mimic the barrier-strengthening role of natural ceramides.

🧪 Oleic Acid / 油酸

Purpose: Softens the skin and enhances the penetration of other active lipids.

Concerns: May be mildly comedogenic for acne-prone skin types.

Notes: A monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid naturally present in vegetable oils and sebum.

🧪 Palmitic Acid / 棕榈酸

Purpose: Provides emolliency, body, and lipid barrier support.

Notes: A saturated fatty acid commonly found naturally in skin lipids and plant fats.

🧪 Stearic Acid / 硬脂酸

Purpose: Emollient and emulsion-bodying agent.

Notes: A saturated fatty acid that contributes structural firmness to cosmetic emulsions.

📁 Surfactants / 表面活性剂

🧪 Glyceryl Stearate / 甘油硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Primary non-ionic emulsifier that stabilizes oil-in-water systems.

Notes: Derived from vegetable oils; often paired with PEG-100 Stearate to form a robust emulsifying base.

🧪 PEG-100 Stearate / PEG-100 硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Co-emulsifier that provides emulsion stability and spreadability.

Concerns: Ethoxylated compound; traces of 1,4-dioxane must be controlled during manufacturing.

Notes: High-HLB non-ionic surfactant frequently blended with Glyceryl Stearate.

🧪 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate / 鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾

Purpose: Anionic co-emulsifier providing long-term structural stability.

Notes: Often used to stabilize water-resistant emulsions and prevent phase separation.

🧪 Oleth-3 Phosphate / 油醇聚醚-3 磷酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifying agent and emulsion stabilizer.

Notes: An ethoxylated phosphate ester surfactant that assists in uniform dispersion.

🧪 Polysorbate 60 / 聚山梨醇酯-60

Purpose: Hydrophilic emulsifier and solubilizer.

Notes: A non-ionic surfactant used in combination with sorbitan esters to stabilize formulations.

🧪 Sorbitan Isostearate / 山梨坦异硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Lipophilic emulsifier helping to stabilize water-in-oil and oil-in-water systems.

Notes: A sorbitol derivative paired with higher HLB emulsifiers for smooth texture creation.

📁 Thickeners / 增稠剂

🧪 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer / 丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物

Purpose: Hydrogel rheology modifier, thickener, and sensory enhancer.

Notes: Pre-neutralized polymer that gives a melting, fresh gel-cream skin feel without stickiness.

🧪 Xanthan Gum / 黄原胶

Purpose: Viscosity builder and emulsion stabilizer.

Notes: A natural polysaccharide produced via the fermentation of glucose by Xanthomonas campestris.

📁 Preservatives / 防腐剂

🧪 Phenoxyethanol / 苯氧乙醇

Purpose: Broad-spectrum antimicrobial preservative effective against bacteria.

Concerns: Can cause mild skin irritation in individuals with compromised skin barriers.

Notes: Globally approved preservative typically used at concentrations below 1.0%.

🧪 Ethylhexylglycerin / 乙基己基甘油

Purpose: Preservative booster, deodorizer, and mild skin-conditioning agent.

Notes: Disrupts bacterial cell walls to potentiate the efficacy of Phenoxyethanol.

🧪 Potassium Sorbate / 山梨酸钾

Purpose: Preservative active primarily against molds and yeasts.

Notes: The potassium salt of sorbic acid, functioning optimally at slightly acidic pH levels.

🧪 Sodium Benzoate / 苯甲酸钠

Purpose: Preservative inhibiting fungal and bacterial growth.

Notes: Widely used in food and cosmetics; relies on acidic conditions (pH < 5) to form active benzoic acid.

📁 Chelating Agents / 螯合剂

🧪 Disodium EDTA / 乙二胺四乙酸二钠

Purpose: Binds trace heavy metal ions to prevent formula degradation and discoloration.

Notes: Enhances preservative system performance by sequestering metal cofactors required by microbes.

🧪 Tetrasodium EDTA / 乙二胺四乙酸四钠

Purpose: Chelating agent stabilizing product appearance, fragrance, and texture.

Notes: Performs effectively across higher pH ranges compared to Disodium EDTA.

🧪 Sodium Bisulfite / 亚硫酸氢钠

Purpose: Inorganic antioxidant and reducing agent that prevents formula yellowing.

Concerns: May trigger sensitivity in individuals with known sulfite allergies.

Notes: Used at very low concentrations to protect easily oxidizable actives like Niacinamide and fatty acids.

🧪 Phosphoric Acid / 磷酸

Purpose: Adjusts and buffers the pH of the formulation.

Notes: Used in minute quantities strictly for precise neutralization and product stability.