This is the EltaMD PM Restore Moisturizer (formerly known as PM Therapy), an oil-free, fragrance-free nightly moisturizer designed to strengthen the skin’s natural moisture barrier, improve tone, and promote overnight repair.
This moisturizer delivers exceptional efficacy due to a well-balanced blend of active, hydrating, and barrier-repairing ingredients. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) serves as a multitasking powerhouse to improve skin texture, brightness, and barrier strength. Deep hydration is provided by humectants like Glycerin, Glycereth-26, and Sodium Hyaluronate. To prevent transepidermal water loss, the formula integrates skin-identical barrier lipids, notably C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters and Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA (a biomimetic pseudoceramide). Furthermore, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein offers peptide benefits to encourage collagen health, while Thioctic Acid (Alpha Lipoic Acid) and Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) provide robust antioxidant defense. The minor deduction from a perfect score is only due to the absence of heavier occlusive agents, which some extremely dry skin types might prefer.
The safety of this formulation is exemplary, making it highly suitable for sensitive or compromised skin. It completely avoids common irritants such as synthetic fragrances, essential oils, and harsh drying alcohols. The preservative system, relying on Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, and Potassium Sorbate, is exceptionally mild and safe for daily use. While it contains minor potential sensitizers like Sodium Bisulfite (a stabilizer) and ethoxylated compounds like PEG-100 Stearate and Polysorbate 60, these are utilized in safe, low concentrations that pose virtually no risk to the vast majority of users.
The final rating of 9.3/10 reflects a highly sophisticated, dermatologist-grade formulation that excels in both restorative performance and skin tolerability. By combining barrier-mimicking ceramides and lipids with soothing Niacinamide and peptide-rich rice protein, this moisturizer actively repairs the skin barrier while you sleep. Free from common allergens and irritants, it successfully caters to all skin types, from sensitive to acne-prone, providing premium hydration and therapeutic anti-aging benefits.
The ingredient profile of this nightly facial moisturizer represents an exceptionally well-formulated, barrier-repairing cream that strikes a perfect balance between intense hydration and a lightweight texture. At its core, the formula relies on a high concentration of niacinamide (vitamin B3), a powerhouse multi-tasker known to reduce redness, regulate oil production, diminish the appearance of fine lines, and fade hyperpigmentation. This is paired with hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide MEA, a bio-mimetic pseudo-ceramide that mimics the natural lipids in our skin barrier. Together with C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, linoleic acid, and oleic acid, these ingredients work in synergy to restore and reinforce a compromised skin barrier, sealing in moisture and preventing transepidermal water loss while you sleep. To provide immediate and long-lasting hydration, the moisturizer integrates a robust blend of humectants including glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and hydrolyzed caesalpinia spinosa (tara) gum, which continuously draw moisture into the upper layers of the skin. Additionally, the inclusion of hydrolyzed rice protein provides small, easily absorbed peptides that promote skin elasticity and collagen synthesis, assisting in overnight cellular rejuvenation. Antioxidants like thioctic acid (alpha-lipoic acid) and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) are also present to neutralize free radical damage from daily environmental exposure. From a formulation standpoint, the absence of added fragrance, essential oils, and drying alcohols makes it an excellent option for highly sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin. It absorbs beautifully without leaving a heavy, greasy film, making it highly versatile for layering over serums. However, because it contains rich fatty acids like oleic acid and stearic acid, individuals with highly acne-prone, congestion-prone, or malassezia-sensitive (fungal acne) skin should exercise some caution, as these lipids can potentially trigger breakouts in highly susceptible skin types. Overall, this is an outstanding, dermatologist-favored night cream that delivers scientifically-backed barrier repair, deep hydration, and gentle anti-aging benefits in a highly elegant, non-irritating vehicle.
🧪 Niacinamide / 烟酰胺
Purpose: Skin brightening, anti-inflammatory, and barrier repair.
Concerns: May cause mild flushing or irritation in highly sensitive skin.
Notes: A versatile, well-tolerated vitamin B3 derivative that helps improve uneven skin tone and strengthen the lipid barrier.
🧪 C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters / C10-30 酸胆甾醇/羊毛甾醇酯
Purpose: Biomimetic emollient and skin-repairing agent.
Concerns: Extremely low risk of mild contact allergy for individuals highly sensitive to lanolin derivatives.
Notes: An exceptionally rich skin-identical lipid mixture that effectively repairs dry, cracked skin.
🧪 Linoleic Acid / 亚油酸
Purpose: Essential fatty acid (Omega-6) that restores barrier lipids and acts as an anti-inflammatory agent.
Concerns: Slightly prone to oxidation, which is prevented by antioxidants in the formula.
Notes: A key lipid component for maintaining a healthy and supple skin barrier; beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin types.
🧪 Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA / 羟丙基双棕榈酰胺 MEA
Purpose: Pseudoceramide (synthetic ceramide mimic) that locks in moisture.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Functions similarly to natural Ceramide 3, preventing trenespidermal water loss (TEWL) and defending against environmental irritants.
🧪 Tocopheryl Acetate / 生育酚乙酸酯
Purpose: Vitamin E derivative that serves as an antioxidant and skin conditioner.
Concerns: Very low allergy or dermatitis risk.
Notes: Protects both the skin lipids and product oils from oxidative damage.
🧪 Hydrolyzed Rice Protein / 水解大米蛋白
Purpose: Peptide-rich protein that conditions skin and improves elasticity.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Promotes hydration and skin vitality by providing vital amino acids and stimulating cellular recovery.
🧪 Thioctic Acid / 硫辛酸
Purpose: Alpha-lipoic acid, a powerful universal antioxidant.
Concerns: May cause a transient tingling sensation on sensitive skin types.
Notes: Helps neutralize free radicals and regenerates other key antioxidants like vitamins C and E.
🧪 Sodium Hyaluronate / 透明质酸钠
Purpose: Powerful humectant that draws moisture into the skin.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Able to hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, helping to instantly plump and hydrate the skin surface.
🧪 Water / 水
Purpose: Solvent and carrier fluid.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Forms the base of the emulsion, allowing water-soluble actives to penetrate the skin.
🧪 Glycerin / 甘油
Purpose: Natural and highly effective humectant.
Concerns: None.
Notes: A standard skin-replenishing ingredient that helps restore healthy skin hydration levels.
🧪 Glycereth-26 / 甘油聚醚-26
Purpose: Humectant and texture enhancer.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Provides a smooth, elegant skin feel with sustained moisture without a sticky finish.
🧪 Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / 水解刺云实胶
Purpose: Water-binding agent and film former.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Derived from tara seeds, it releases hydration sequentially to provide long-lasting moisturization.
🧪 Ethylhexyl Isononanoate / 异壬酸乙基己酯
Purpose: Lightweight emollient.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Leaves a dry, silky finish on the skin without clogging pores or feeling greasy.
🧪 Oleic Acid / 油酸
Purpose: Monounsaturated fatty acid and penetration enhancer.
Concerns: Can be slightly irritating or comedogenic if used in isolation at very high percentages, but is safe in balanced emulsified mixtures.
Notes: Helps other active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin.
🧪 Palmitic Acid / 棕榈酸
Purpose: Saturated fatty acid and emollient.
Concerns: Can be comedogenic in pure form, though completely safe in cosmetic mixtures.
Notes: An important natural component of the skin’s protective acid mantle.
🧪 Stearic Acid / 硬脂酸
Purpose: Fatty acid used as an emollient and emulsion stabilizer.
Concerns: Slightly comedogenic in isolation, but typically safe in well-formulated moisturizers.
Notes: Smoothes and softens skin while helping to structure the cream.
🧪 Glyceryl Stearate / 甘油硬脂酸酯
Purpose: Emulsifier and emollient.
Concerns: None.
Notes: A highly stable, plant-derived ingredient that keeps oil and water phases thoroughly mixed.
🧪 PEG-100 Stearate / PEG-100 硬脂酸酯
Purpose: Hydrophilic emulsifier and surfactant.
Concerns: PEG compounds may contain minor trace impurities, which are thoroughly purified and strictly monitored in cosmetics.
Notes: Typically paired with Glyceryl Stearate to create stable, cosmetically elegant textures.
🧪 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate / 鲸蜡基磷酸酯钾
Purpose: Anionic emulsifier.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Often chosen for its ability to create exceptionally robust emulsions that perform well on sensitive skin.
🧪 Oleth-3 Phosphate / 油醇聚醚-3 磷酸酯
Purpose: Emulsifier and dispersing agent.
Concerns: Ethoxylated compound, minimal trace risk, deemed safe at standard cosmetic concentrations.
Notes: Helps uniformly disperse ingredients throughout the formulation.
🧪 Polysorbate 60 / 聚山梨醇酯-60
Purpose: Non-ionic emulsifier and stabilizer.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Helps maintain emulsion stability over varying temperature ranges.
🧪 Sorbitan Isostearate / 失水山梨醇异硬脂酸酯
Purpose: Co-emulsifier and skin-conditioning agent.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Often combined with polysorbates to create delicate, highly-stable lotions.
🧪 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer / 丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物
Purpose: Gelling agent, thickener, and emulsion stabilizer.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Creates a fresh, melting texture upon contact with the skin, delivering a non-sticky feel.
🧪 Xanthan Gum / 黄原胶
Purpose: Natural rheology modifier and thickener.
Concerns: None.
Notes: A fermentation-derived natural gum that stabilizes viscosity.
🧪 Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum / 刺云实胶
Purpose: Polysaccharide thickener and sensory enhancer.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Derived from tara tree seeds, it enhances the physical feel and smoothness of the cream.
🧪 Phenoxyethanol / 苯氧乙醇
Purpose: Broad-spectrum preservative.
Concerns: Safe up to 1% concentration; very rare skin irritant at high concentrations.
Notes: An effective and widely used alternative to parabens to prevent microbial growth.
🧪 Ethylhexylglycerin / 乙基己基甘油
Purpose: Preservative booster and mild humectant.
Concerns: Extremely low risk of contact allergy.
Notes: Synergizes with Phenoxyethanol to boost preservative efficacy while softening the skin.
🧪 Disodium EDTA / 乙二胺四乙酸二钠
Purpose: Chelating agent.
Concerns: Safe for skin, though has low environmental biodegradability.
Notes: Binds to trace metal ions to prevent discoloration, rancidity, and formula degradation.
🧪 Sodium Bisulfite / 亚硫酸氢钠
Purpose: Antioxidant and reducing agent.
Concerns: Sulfite sensitive individuals may experience irritation; safe for general use in trace quantities.
Notes: Helps maintain formula stability and prevents active ingredients from oxidizing over time.
🧪 Potassium Sorbate / 山梨酸钾
Purpose: Preservative.
Concerns: Very low contact allergy risk.
Notes: Particularly effective against mold and yeast growth, keeping the moisturizer fresh.
🧪 Sodium Benzoate / 苯甲酸钠
Purpose: Preservative.
Concerns: Low risk; a common food-grade preservative.
Notes: Often paired with other organic acids to ensure comprehensive protection.
🧪 Phosphoric Acid / 磷酸
Purpose: pH Adjuster.
Concerns: Safe in trace amounts used to adjust pH.
Notes: Keeps the pH of the moisturizer balanced and compatible with the skin’s natural acidic mantle.
🧪 Tetrasodium EDTA / 乙二胺四乙酸四钠
Purpose: Chelating agent.
Concerns: Environmentally persistent, but completely safe for topical use.
Notes: Works to improve formulation stability and preserve the product’s overall shelf life.