Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream with Squalane

This is a classic, deeply hydrating facial moisturizer formulated with squalane, nourishing plant oils, and glacial glycoprotein to deliver long-lasting moisture and barrier support.

Performance Rating: 8.9

The performance rating of 8.9/10 is justified by an exceptionally well-rounded blend of hydrating, emollient, and skin-barrier-supporting ingredients. The formula features Glycerin as a primary humectant to draw in moisture, paired with Squalane and Dimethicone to lock it in. It is enriched with nourishing plant lipids including Apricot Kernel Oil, Avocado Oil, Rice Bran Oil, and Sweet Almond Oil to deeply condition the skin. Furthermore, the inclusion of Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract helps protect the skin from moisture loss, while Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine (a ceramide precursor) actively works to restore and strengthen the natural skin barrier.

Safety Rating: 8.6

The safety rating of 8.6/10 is highly favorable, reflecting a formulation that omits drying alcohols, essential oils, and synthetic fragrances, which are common culprits for contact dermatitis. It relies on skin-friendly fatty acids like Stearic Acid and Palmitic Acid alongside soothing emollients. The minor rating deduction accounts for the presence of preservatives like Phenoxyethanol and Chlorphenesin, which can cause mild sensitization in extremely reactive individuals, and Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, which carries a minimal risk of allergic reaction for some skin types.

Final Rating: 8.8

With a final rating of 8.8/10, this moisturizer represents a highly effective and stable formulation suitable for normal, dry, and sensitive skin. It successfully marries deep, multi-layered hydration from botanical oils and Squalane with advanced skin-barrier defense from ceramide-mimicking ingredients. It delivers top-tier moisturizing performance while maintaining a very clean safety profile, making it a reliable daily skincare staple.

Verdict

This formulation is a classic example of a high-performing, deeply hydrating daily moisturizer designed specifically to combat dryness and support the skin’s natural barrier. At its core, the formula utilizes a highly effective combination of glycerin, a powerful humectant, alongside premium emollients like squalane and dimethicone. Squalane, a skin-identical lipid, excels at mimicking the skin’s natural oils to soften and smooth the complexion without a greasy residue, while dimethicone creates a lightweight, breathable shield to prevent trans-epidermal water loss. The standout feature of this moisturizer is its rich botanical lipid profile. It features a nourishing blend of apricot kernel, avocado, rice bran, olive fruit, and sweet almond oils. These plant-derived oils are packed with essential fatty acids and vitamins that deeply condition the skin, helping to heal dry, flaky patches and restore a healthy glow. Furthermore, the inclusion of pseudoalteromonas ferment extract—a glacial glycoprotein—provides exceptional cold-weather protection by helping the skin lock in moisture even under harsh, drying environmental conditions. To actively fortify the skin barrier over time, the moisturizer incorporates hydroxypalmitoyl sphinganine, a pseudoceramide that reinforces the intercellular lipid matrix. For environmental protection, tocopherol (Vitamin E) and rosemary leaf extract act as reliable antioxidants, shielding the skin from free radicals. A touch of salicylic acid is also present, likely aiding in mild cell turnover and product stability, though its low concentration makes it gentle enough for daily use. However, this formulation is not universally suitable. Due to the heavy concentration of fatty acids and potentially pore-clogging ingredients like myristyl myristate, olive oil, and avocado oil, those with oily or acne-prone skin may find this cream too heavy, potentially leading to congestion or breakouts. Fortunately, because it is entirely free of synthetic fragrances, essential oils, and drying alcohols, it is exceptionally well-tolerated by normal, dry, dehydrated, and sensitive skin types seeking reliable, long-lasting comfort.

Who Is This Product For?

People with dry, dehydrated, or normal skin looking for deep, long-lasting moisture.
Individuals living in cold, dry, or harsh climates who need a protective skin barrier shield.
Those with sensitive skin seeking a fragrance-free, alcohol-free comforting cream.
People focused on barrier repair and restoring skin suppleness through squalane and ceramides.

Who Should Avoid This Product?

Individuals with oily, congested, or acne-prone skin who may experience clogged pores from heavy botanical oils like avocado and olive oil.
People highly prone to fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis), as the formula contains several fermentable plant oils and fatty acids.

Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Hydrating & Solvent Agents / 水与保湿成分

🧪 AQUA / WATER / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: Functions as the base liquid to dissolve other ingredients and facilitate application.

🧪 GLYCERIN / 甘油 / 丙三醇

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A skin-identical ingredient that effectively binds water and deeply hydrates the skin.

📁 Emollients & Plant Oils / 润肤剂与植物油

🧪 DIMETHICONE / 聚二甲基硅氧烷

Purpose: Silicone Emollient

Concerns: May feel heavy for some acne-prone skin types, but generally non-comedogenic.

Notes: Forms a breathable barrier on the skin to prevent transepidermal water loss and smooths skin texture.

🧪 SQUALANE / 角鲨烷

Purpose: Emollient, Skin Conditioner

Concerns: None

Notes: A highly stable skin-identical lipid that mimics natural sebum, providing intense softening and moisture barrier support.

🧪 PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL / APRICOT KERNEL OIL / 杏仁油 / 杏桃仁油