Goodfellow & Co Moroccan Mint & Cedar Shampoo

A sulfate-free clarifying shampoo featuring Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate and Hops Extract designed to provide a deep clean and volume without heavy silicones.

Performance Rating: 4.1

This formula features a robust surfactant system. The primary cleanser, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, is excellent for removing buildup and creating rich foam, though it can be slightly drying. This is effectively balanced by milder co-surfactants like Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, which reduce irritation and prevent excessive stripping of natural oils. The inclusion of Glycerin and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride ensures the hair remains hydrated and detangled (anti-static) after washing.

Safety Rating: 4.1

The ingredient list avoids many controversial chemicals. It is sulfate-free (no SLS/SLES), paraben-free, and uses a gentle preservation system consisting of Gluconolactone and Sodium Benzoate. The surfactants used are generally considered biodegradable and milder than traditional sulfates. The primary safety concern is Fragrance, which is a generic term that may hide potential allergens or irritants for those with very sensitive scalps.

Final Rating: 4.1

This is a well-formulated, modern shampoo. It strikes a good balance between clarifying power and gentleness, making it suitable for normal to oily hair types. While it may be slightly too clarifying for extremely dry or damaged hair due to the olefin sulfonate, the addition of botanical extracts (Hops) and decent conditioning agents makes it a solid daily driver for most users seeking a cleaner ingredient profile.

Verdict

This formulation represents a modern approach to deep cleansing without the use of traditional sulfates. The primary surfactant, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, is a powerful anionic cleanser that creates a rich lather and effectively removes sebum and product buildup. While it is technically sulfate-free, it is quite potent, making this shampoo an excellent choice for those who feel that gentler ‘low-poo’ options fail to get their hair truly clean. It bridges the gap between gentle care and heavy-duty washing.

To mitigate the potential drying effects of the primary cleanser, the formula includes a blend of milder co-surfactants: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate. These ingredients are known for their mildness and ability to reduce irritation. By combining them with the stronger sulfonate, the manufacturer has created a balanced profile that cleanses thoroughly while maintaining a respectable level of scalp comfort. This creates a surfactant system often found in volumizing shampoos.

Conditioning is handled lightly in this product, utilizing Glycerin for moisture retention and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride for detangling. The Guar gum derivative is a cationic polymer that neutralizes static and smooths the hair cuticle. Because this formula avoids heavy silicones (like dimethicone), it is unlikely to weigh hair down, further suggesting it is aimed at people seeking volume and bounce.

The inclusion of Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract is a unique botanical addition. Hops are rich in vitamins and antioxidants and are often cited in traditional remedies for strengthening hair and regulating scalp oils. This makes the product particularly appealing for those dealing with a greasy scalp or fine, limp strands. However, the presence of Fragrance means that users with hyper-sensitive skin or fragrance allergies should proceed with caution. Overall, this is a solid choice for a daily driver for normal to oily hair types, but perhaps too stripping for dry, coiled, or chemically processed hair.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvents / 溶剂

🧪 Water / 水

Purpose: Primary solvent/base

Concerns: None

Notes: Dissolves other ingredients

📁 Surfactants (Cleansing Agents) / 表面活性剂(清洁剂)

🧪 Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate / C14-16 烯烃磺酸钠

Purpose: Primary anionic surfactant, cleansing, foaming

Concerns: Can be drying if not formulated with conditioning agents

Notes: Not a sulfate, but a strong cleanser suitable for removing buildup

🧪 Cocamidopropyl Betaine / 椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱

Purpose: Amphoteric surfactant, foam booster, mildness additive

Concerns: Potential allergen (usually due to impurities like amines)

Notes: Helps mitigate irritation from stronger surfactants

🧪 Decyl Glucoside / 癸基葡糖苷

Purpose: Non-ionic surfactant, gentle cleansing

Concerns: None generally

Notes: Plant-derived, biodegradable, and very mild

🧪 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate / 椰油两性二乙酸二钠

Purpose: Mild surfactant, foam stabilizer

Concerns: None generally

Notes: Extremely mild, often used in baby products

📁 Moisturizers & Conditioners / 保湿与调理剂

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant (attracts moisture)

Concerns: Can cause frizz in very high humidity environments

Notes: Common and effective moisturizer

🧪 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride / 瓜儿胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵

Purpose: Cationic polymer, anti-static, detangling

Concerns: Potential for buildup with heavy usage

Notes: Derived from Guar Gum, neutralizes negative charges on hair strands

📁 Preservatives & Stabilizers / 防腐剂与稳定剂

🧪 Gluconolactone / 葡糖内酯

Purpose: Chelating agent, mild exfoliant, preservative booster

Concerns: None generally

Notes: A Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) that helps hydrate

🧪 Sodium Benzoate / 苯甲酸钠

Purpose: Antifungal preservative

Concerns: Can be irritating to some sensitive skins; pH dependent

Notes: Food-grade preservative often used in natural formulations

🧪 Sodium Chloride / 氯化钠

Purpose: Thickener

Concerns: Can be drying in high concentrations

Notes: Common table salt, builds viscosity in surfactant systems

📁 Botanicals / 植物提取物

🧪 Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract / 啤酒花提取物

Purpose: Antimicrobial, astringent, soothing

Concerns: None generally

Notes: Helps regulate sebum and soothe the scalp

📁 Fragrance / 香精

🧪 Fragrance / 香精

Purpose: Scent/Sensory experience

Concerns: Common cause of contact dermatitis/allergies

Notes: Specific components are usually proprietary