Dove Damage Therapy Amino Curl Repair Shampoo

A sulfate-free yet powerful cleanser packed with amino acids and vitamins designed to strengthen hair strands while effectively removing oil and buildup.

Performance Rating: 4.1

This formula uses Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate as the primary cleanser; while technically sulfate-free, it is a strong surfactant that provides excellent lather and deep cleansing, though it can be drying. The inclusion of Cocamidopropyl Betaine helps mitigate this harshness. The product features an impressive cocktail of Amino Acids (Arginine, Serine, Glutamic Acid) and Vitamins (Biotin, Niacinamide, Panthenol), which are excellent for surface-level strengthening and shine, aided by Polyquaternium-10 for detangling and smoothness.

Safety Rating: 3.5

The product is free from parabens and uses Sodium Benzoate as a milder preservative. However, it contains a significant number of potential allergens derived from Fragrance, specifically Benzyl Salicylate, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, and Linalool, which can trigger contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals. Additionally, PEG-45M is an ethoxylated ingredient, which carries a low-level risk of contamination impurities, though generally safe in cosmetics.

Final Rating: 3.8

This is a well-engineered mass-market formulation likely targeting hair repair or strengthening. It bridges the gap between standard drugstore shampoos and ‘natural’ alternatives by excluding sulfates but keeping high efficacy. The addition of Jojoba Oil and Grape Fruit Extract provides a nice finishing touch. It is best suited for normal to oily hair types, as the strong cleansing agents might prove too stripping for extremely dry or curly hair despite the added conditioners.

Verdict

This shampoo formulation presents a compelling balance between deep cleansing capabilities and fortifying hair treatments. The primary surfactant used here is Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate. While technically considered sulfate-free, this anionic surfactant is known for its high cleansing power and excellent foaming ability. It is significantly stronger than mild amino-acid-based cleansers and can sometimes be drying, making it excellent for removing stubborn product buildup, dirt, and excess oil from the scalp. It is effectively paired with Cocamidopropyl Betaine, a gentler amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut oil, which acts as a co-surfactant to mitigate some of the potential irritation and stabilize the foam profile. The inclusion of Sodium Gluconate as a chelating agent is a thoughtful addition, helping the product perform consistent cleaning duties even in hard water environments by neutralizing metal ions. What stands out most in this formula, however, is the impressive array of strengthening and conditioning agents. It includes a robust cocktail of amino acids such as Serine, Arginine, Glutamic Acid, and Histidine HCl. Since hair is primarily made of keratin protein, adding amino acids can help reinforce the hair structure, improve color retention, and increase tensile strength against breakage. This bio-mimetic approach is very popular in modern haircare for repairing damage at a molecular level. Furthermore, the inclusion of a multivitamin complex sets this product apart from standard drugstore shampoos. The presence of Biotin, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), and Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) suggests a strong focus on scalp health and antioxidant protection. Panthenol is particularly effective as a humectant that penetrates the hair shaft to provide hydration and volume, while Polyquaternium-10 provides necessary slip to the hair to reduce mechanical damage during detangling. However, users with sensitive skin or specific allergies should proceed with caution. The ingredient list contains Fragrance relatively high up, along with specific scent components like Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, and Linalool, which are known sensitizers. Additionally, while it contains Jojoba Seed Oil and Grape Fruit Extract, the high position of the strong sulfonated surfactant suggests that this shampoo leans more towards “clarifying” than “moisturizing.” It is an excellent choice for those looking to strengthen limp or oily hair, but it may require a heavy conditioner if used on very dry hair types.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvent / 溶剂

🧪 Water (Aqua) / 水

Purpose: Base solvent for the formula.

Concerns: None.

Notes: The primary ingredient in most shampoos.

📁 Surfactants (Cleansing Agents) / 表面活性剂(清洁剂)

🧪 Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate / C14-16 烯烃磺酸钠

Purpose: Primary cleansing agent that removes dirt and oil.

Concerns: Can be drying to the hair and scalp if not properly formulated with moisturizers.

Notes: A strong anionic surfactant, often used as a sulfate-free alternative to SLS/SLES, though still quite stripping.

🧪 Cocamidopropyl Betaine / 椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱

Purpose: Secondary surfactant and foam booster.

Concerns: Generally mild, but impurities can cause irritation in rare cases.

Notes: Helps to reduce the harshness of the primary surfactant.

📁 Conditioning & Moisturizing Agents / 调理与保湿剂

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant that attracts moisture to the hair.

Concerns: None typically.

Notes: Common moisturizing ingredient.

🧪 Polyquaternium-10 / 聚季铵盐-10

Purpose: Cationic polymer that reduces static and improves manageability.

Concerns: Build-up is possible over time but generally washes out easily.

Notes: Provides a smooth feel to the hair.

🧪 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil / 霍霍巴籽油

Purpose: Emollient oil that mimics natural sebum.

Concerns: None typically.

Notes: Excellent for moisturizing without being too heavy.

🧪 PPG-9 / PPG-9

Purpose: Emollient and skin-conditioning agent.

Concerns: Minimal.

Notes: Helps improve the texture of the product.

📁 Amino Acids & Proteins / 氨基酸与蛋白质

🧪 Serine / 丝氨酸

Purpose: Hair conditioning and water-binding agent.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Part of the hair’s natural structure.

🧪 Arginine / 精氨酸

Purpose: Strengthens hair and supports scalp health.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Improve blood flow to scalp roots in leave-in products, acts as conditioner here.

🧪 Glutamic Acid / 谷氨酸

Purpose: Hair conditioning and pH regulation.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Amino acid.

🧪 Histidine HCl / 组氨酸 HCl

Purpose: Amino acid that helps protect hair from oxidative damage.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Often used for UV or antioxidant protection.

📁 Vitamins & Botanicals / 维生素与植物提取物

🧪 Biotin / 生物素

Purpose: Vitamin B7, claimed to strengthen hair.

Concerns: None in topical use.

Notes: Popular in hair loss formulas, though topical efficacy varies.

🧪 Tocopheryl Acetate / 生育酚乙酸酯

Purpose: Vitamin E; antioxidant.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Protects product and scalp from oxidation.

🧪 Ascorbic Acid / 抗坏血酸

Purpose: Vitamin C; antioxidant.

Concerns: Can be unstable in liquid formulas.

Notes: Helps protect against free radical damage.

🧪 Niacinamide / 烟酰胺

Purpose: Vitamin B3; improves scalp barrier function.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Great for scalp health and volume.

🧪 Panthenol / 泛醇

Purpose: Pro-Vitamin B5; penetrates hair shaft to moisturize.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Adds shine and softness.

🧪 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract / 葡萄果提取物

Purpose: Botanical extract rich in antioxidants.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Helps protect hair from environmental stress.

📁 Thickeners, Stabilizers & pH Adjusters / 增稠剂、稳定剂与pH调节剂

🧪 Sodium Chloride / 氯化钠

Purpose: Thickens the shampoo formula.

Concerns: Can be drying if concentration is very high.

Notes: Common table salt.

🧪 Sodium Gluconate / 葡萄糖酸钠

Purpose: Chelating agent; binds metal ions from water.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Helps the preservative work better and prevents hard water buildup.

🧪 Citric Acid / 柠檬酸

Purpose: Adjusts the pH of the product to match the scalp.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Derived from citrus fruits.

🧪 Glycol Distearate / 二硬脂酸乙二醇酯

Purpose: Pearlizing agent.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Gives the shampoo a pearlescent, shiny appearance.

🧪 PEG-45M / PEG-45M

Purpose: Binder, stabilizer, and lubricant.

Concerns: PEG compounds can be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane (usually removed in manufacturing).

Notes: Improves texture and slip.

📁 Preservatives / 防腐剂

🧪 Sodium Benzoate / 苯甲酸钠

Purpose: Prevents bacterial and fungal growth.

Concerns: Generally safe, but can form benzene if combined with Vitamin C under specific heat/light conditions (rare in shelf products).

Notes: Food-grade preservative.

🧪 Benzyl Alcohol / 苯甲醇

Purpose: Preservative and solvent.

Concerns: Can be a contact allergen for some people.

Notes: Often part of fragrance blends or preservative systems.

📁 Fragrance & Allergens / 香精与致敏原

🧪 Fragrance (Parfum) / 香精

Purpose: Provides scent.

Concerns: Potential irritant for sensitive skin.

Notes: Proprietary blend of scent chemicals.

🧪 Benzyl Salicylate / 水杨酸苄酯

Purpose: Fragrance component/fixative.

Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.

Notes: Must be declared on labels in EU.

🧪 Citronellol / 香茅醇

Purpose: Fragrance component (citrus/floral).

Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.

Notes: Naturally occurring in essential oils.

🧪 Hexyl Cinnamal / 己基肉桂醛

Purpose: Fragrance component (jasmine-like).

Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.

Notes: Must be declared on labels in EU.

🧪 Limonene / 柠檬烯

Purpose: Fragrance component (citrus).

Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.

Notes: Naturally occurring in citrus peels.

🧪 Linalool / 芳樟醇

Purpose: Fragrance component (floral/spice).

Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.

Notes: Naturally occurring in lavender and mint.