up&up Hydrating Facial Cleanser with Ceramides - Normal to Dry Skin/Sensitive

A non-foaming, lotion-textured cleanser rich in ceramides and fatty alcohols designed to gently remove impurities while restoring the skin barrier.

Performance Rating: 4.5

This formula represents a gold standard for gentle, non-stripping cleansing. It relies on emollient fatty alcohols (Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol) and mild emulsifiers (PEG-40 Stearate) rather than harsh foaming surfactants, making it exceptional for dry or compromised skin barriers. The inclusion of a physiological lipid blend—Ceramides NP, AP, and EOP, Cholesterol, and Phytosphingosine—helps restore the skin’s protective barrier during the cleansing process. Additionally, Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate ensure the skin remains hydrated. While it may struggle to remove heavy waterproof makeup on its own, its performance as a daily cleanser for maintaining skin health is outstanding.

Safety Rating: 4.7

The ingredient profile is formulated with a high priority on safety and tolerance. It is free from fragrance, drying alcohols, and harsh sulfates (like SLS or SLES), drastically reducing the risk of irritation or sensitization. The preservative system (Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol) is standard and well-tolerated. It is suitable for sensitive, eczematic, and reactive skin types.

Final Rating: 4.6

This is a top-tier hydrating cleanser, likely recognizable as a popular dermatologist-recommended formula. It excels at balancing effective cleansing with moisture preservation. By combining humectants with skin-identical lipids, it treats the skin while washing it. It is highly recommended for anyone with normal to dry skin, or those using drying acne treatments, though oily skin types might prefer a foaming variant.

Verdict

This product represents the gold standard for gentle cleansing, formulated specifically to prioritize the health of the skin barrier over the sensory experience of a deep scrub. The ingredient list reveals a reliance on fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol rather than harsh, foaming surfactants. This creates a creamy, lotion-like consistency that feels more like applying a moisturizer than a traditional soap. For individuals accustomed to the “squeaky clean” feeling of foaming gels, this texture might be an adjustment, but it is undeniably beneficial for preserving the skin’s delicate acid mantle.

At the heart of this formula is a robust complex of skin-identical lipids. The inclusion of Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, and Ceramide EOP, combined with cholesterol and phytosphingosine, mimics the natural structure of the stratum corneum. This makes the product not just a cleaning agent, but a therapeutic step for compromised skin. These ingredients work synergistically to reinforce the barrier, ensuring that moisture is locked in while impurities are washed away. Additionally, sodium hyaluronate and glycerin act as powerful humectants, drawing water into the skin to prevent the dehydration that often occurs during cleansing.

However, the extreme gentleness of this cleanser creates specific limitations. Because it lacks strong surfactants, it may struggle to break down heavy waterproof makeup or thick layers of mineral sunscreen. Users who wear full-coverage cosmetics should use this as a second step in a double-cleansing routine, preceded by an oil cleanser or balm.

Furthermore, those with oily or congestion-prone skin might find the residue left behind—often described as a moisturizing film—to be slightly too heavy or occlusive. While the formula includes non-comedogenic emulsifiers like polysorbate 20, the rich presence of stearates is specifically tuned for dryness. Ultimately, this is a staple for sensitive types, offering a soothing cleanse that respects the skin’s biological integrity.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvents & Humectants / 溶剂与保湿剂

🧪 Water / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: The base of the formulation.

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Attracts moisture to the skin; a gold standard ingredient for hydration.

🧪 Sodium Hyaluronate / 透明质酸钠

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: The salt form of hyaluronic acid; holds 1000x its weight in water.

🧪 Caprylyl Glycol / 辛甘醇

Purpose: Humectant / Preservative Booster

Concerns: None

Notes: Skin conditioning agent that also increases antimicrobial activity.

🧪 Hexylene Glycol / 己二醇

Purpose: Solvent / Viscosity Agent

Concerns: Low risk of irritation

Notes: Helps thin out heavy compositions.

📁 Skin Barrier Repair (Ceramides & Lipids) / 皮肤屏障修复(神经酰胺与脂质)

🧪 Ceramide NP / 神经酰胺 NP

Purpose: Skin-identical ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Reinforces the natural lipid barrier of dry and aging skin.

🧪 Ceramide AP / 神经酰胺 AP

Purpose: Skin-identical ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Works synergistically with other ceramides to retain moisture.

🧪 Ceramide EOP / 神经酰胺 EOP

Purpose: Skin-identical ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Vital for skin barrier function.

🧪 Phytosphingosine / 植物鞘氨醇

Purpose: Skin-conditioning / Lipid precursor

Concerns: None

Notes: A precursor to ceramides that helps restore the skin barrier.

🧪 Cholesterol / 胆固醇

Purpose: Skin-identical ingredient / Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: Essential for maintaining the skin’s water balance and barrier health.

📁 Emollients & Fatty Alcohols / 润肤剂与脂肪醇

🧪 Cetyl Alcohol / 鲸蜡醇

Purpose: Emollient / Texture Enhancer

Concerns: Potential comedogenicity for very acne-prone skin

Notes: A fatty alcohol that softens skin and thickens the formula; non-drying.

🧪 Stearyl Alcohol / 硬脂醇

Purpose: Emollient / Texture Enhancer

Concerns: Potential comedogenicity for very acne-prone skin

Notes: Often used with cetyl alcohol to stabilize emulsions.

🧪 Beta-sitosterol / β-谷甾醇

Purpose: Skin-conditioning / Soothing

Concerns: None

Notes: A plant-derived fatty acid similar to cholesterol; soothing.

📁 Emulsifiers & Surfactants / 乳化剂与表面活性剂

🧪 PEG-40 Stearate / PEG-40 硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier / Surfactant

Concerns: PEG compounds can contain impurities (1,4-dioxane) if not purified properly

Notes: Helps mix oil and water.

🧪 Glyceryl Stearate / 甘油硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Gives the product a creamy feel.

🧪 Sucrose Stearate / 蔗糖硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier / Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: A mild sugar-based emulsifier.

🧪 Sucrose Distearate / 蔗糖二硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier / Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: Another mild sugar-based ingredient helping texture.

🧪 Polysorbate 20 / 聚山梨酯-20

Purpose: Emulsifier / Solubilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps dissolve other ingredients.

🧪 Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate / 月桂酰乳酰乳酸钠

Purpose: Emulsifier / Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used to help ceramide delivery.

📁 Texture Enhancers, Stabilizers & Preservatives / 质地调节剂、稳定剂与防腐剂

🧪 Carbomer / 卡波姆

Purpose: Thickener / Texture Enhancer

Concerns: None

Notes: Creates a gel-like consistency.

🧪 Xanthan Gum / 黄原胶

Purpose: Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: Natural sugar-derived thickener.

🧪 Disodium EDTA / 乙二胺四乙酸二钠

Purpose: Chelating Agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Prevents metals in water from degrading the formula.

🧪 Dipotassium Phosphate / 磷酸氢二钾

Purpose: Buffering Agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Adjusts and maintains the pH of the product.

🧪 Phenoxyethanol / 苯氧乙醇

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: Safe in concentrations under 1%

Notes: Prevents bacterial growth.