up&up Foaming Facial Cleanser with Ceramides - Normal to Oily Skin

A refreshing, foaming gel cleanser fortified with Ceramides, Niacinamide, and Hyaluronic Acid to gently remove excess oil and impurities without disrupting the skin barrier.

Performance Rating: 4.6

This formula utilizes a sophisticated blend of mild surfactants (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) that provide effective cleansing without stripping the skin barrier. It is elevated by the inclusion of Niacinamide to soothe and balance oil production, alongside Hyaluronic Acid for hydration. Notably, it contains a robust skin-identical lipid complex consisting of Ceramides (NP, AP, EOP), Cholesterol, and Phytosphingosine, which helps preserve the skin’s protective barrier during the washing process.

Safety Rating: 4.5

The ingredient list is excellent for sensitive skin. It is fragrance-free, free from drying alcohols, and avoids harsh sulfates like SLS/SLES. The preservative system relies on Phenoxyethanol and Hydroxyacetophenone, which are standard and generally safe. The mild surfactant system significantly lowers the risk of irritation compared to traditional foaming cleansers.

Final Rating: 4.6

This is a gold-standard formulation for a daily cleanser, particularly for normal to oily skin types. It successfully combines deep cleansing capabilities with barrier-repairing ingredients, ensuring the skin is left clean but not tight or dry. Its balanced pH and lack of irritants make it a highly reliable and effective product.

Verdict

This cleanser is widely regarded as a benchmark for effective yet gentle skincare, specifically engineered for those with Normal to Oily skin types. Unlike traditional foaming cleansers that rely on harsh sulfates like SLS to strip the skin, this formula utilizes mild surfactants such as Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine and Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate. These agents create a satisfying lather that effectively dissolves dirt, makeup, and excess sebum, but they do so without leaving the face feeling tight or dehydrated. It strikes a difficult balance: powerful enough to clean oily T-zones but gentle enough for daily use.

The formulation stands out due to its inclusion of skin-identical lipids. It features a triple blend of Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, and Ceramide EOP, alongside Cholesterol and Phytosphingosine. This combination is crucial because it mimics the skin’s natural lipid bilayer, helping to restore and maintain the protective barrier that can often be compromised during the cleansing process. By supporting the barrier, the cleanser helps the skin retain moisture and defend against environmental aggressors.

Another key active in this product is Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). Known for its soothing properties, Niacinamide helps to calm redness and regulate oil production, making this an excellent choice for acne-prone individuals. The addition of Hyaluronic Acid further boosts the formula’s hydrating capabilities, ensuring that moisture is attracted to the skin surface. Additionally, the absence of fragrance and sensitizing essential oils minimizes the risk of irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin that is also oily.

Overall, this is a sophisticated, dermatologist-developed product that delivers high-performance ingredients at an accessible value. While it is likely too drying for those with very dry skin (who would benefit more from a non-foaming cream option), it is a top-tier staple for anyone needing to manage oil and congestion while preserving skin health.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvent / 溶剂

🧪 WATER / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: The base component of the cleanser.

📁 Surfactants / 表面活性剂

🧪 COCAMIDOPROPYL HYDROXYSULTAINE / 椰油酰胺丙基羟基磺基甜菜碱

Purpose: Surfactant, foam booster, antistatic agent

Concerns: Generally mild, but impurities can cause irritation in rare cases.

Notes: A mild amphoteric surfactant that helps create foam.

🧪 SODIUM LAUROYL SARCOSINATE / 月桂酰肌氨酸钠

Purpose: Surfactant, cleansing agent

Concerns: Low risk of irritation; enhances penetration of other ingredients.

Notes: An amino acid-based surfactant known for being gentle.

🧪 SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE / 甲基椰油酰基牛磺酸钠

Purpose: Surfactant, cleansing agent

Concerns: None

Notes: A very mild surfactant derived from coconut, suitable for sensitive skin.

📁 Moisturizers & Skin Barrier Agents / 保湿剂与皮肤屏障修复剂

🧪 GLYCERIN / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Attracts moisture to the skin.

🧪 PROPYLENE GLYCOL / 丙二醇

Purpose: Humectant, solvent

Concerns: Can be irritating to sensitive skin in high concentrations.

Notes: Helps other ingredients penetrate the skin.

🧪 CERAMIDE NP / 神经酰胺 NP

Purpose: Skin conditioning, barrier repair

Concerns: None

Notes: One of the essential ceramides naturally found in skin.

🧪 CERAMIDE AP / 神经酰胺 AP

Purpose: Skin conditioning, barrier repair

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps to restore the protective skin barrier.

🧪 CERAMIDE EOP / 神经酰胺 EOP

Purpose: Skin conditioning, barrier repair

Concerns: None

Notes: Works synergistically with other ceramides.

🧪 HYALURONIC ACID / 透明质酸

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Retains moisture and hydrates the skin.

🧪 CHOLESTEROL / 胆固醇

Purpose: Emollient, stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Vital component of the skin barrier lipids.

🧪 PHYTOSPHINGOSINE / 植物鞘氨醇

Purpose: Skin conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: A precursor to ceramides with antimicrobial properties.

📁 Active Ingredients / 活性成分

🧪 NIACINAMIDE / 烟酰胺

Purpose: Skin conditioning, soothing

Concerns: High concentrations can cause flushing in some people.

Notes: Vitamin B3; helps calm the skin and improve barrier function.

📁 Texture Enhancers & Emulsifiers / 质地调节剂与乳化剂

🧪 PEG-150 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRASTEARATE / PEG-150 季戊四醇四硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Thickening agent, emulsifier

Concerns: PEG compounds can be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane if not purified.

Notes: Used to adjust the viscosity of the product.

🧪 PEG-6 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES / PEG-6 辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类

Purpose: Emulsifier, skin conditioning

Concerns: PEG compounds safety concerns (see above).

Notes: Helps mix oil and water components.

🧪 SODIUM CHLORIDE / 氯化钠

Purpose: Viscosity increasing agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Common table salt, used to thicken the formula.

🧪 SODIUM LAUROYL LACTYLATE / 月桂酰乳酰乳酸钠

Purpose: Emulsifier, thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: Also acts as a moisturizer and aids in ceramide delivery.

🧪 CARBOMER / 卡波姆

Purpose: Viscosity controlling

Concerns: None

Notes: Synthetic polymer used to thicken gels.

🧪 XANTHAN GUM / 黄原胶

Purpose: Viscosity controlling, binder

Concerns: None

Notes: Natural polysaccharide used as a thickener.

📁 Preservatives & Stabilizers / 防腐剂与稳定剂

🧪 CITRIC ACID / 柠檬酸

Purpose: pH adjuster

Concerns: Can be irritating in high concentrations (unlikely here).

Notes: Used to balance the acidity of the product.

🧪 DISODIUM EDTA / 乙二胺四乙酸二钠

Purpose: Chelating agent

Concerns: None regarding skin safety in cosmetics.

Notes: Helps preserve the product by binding metal ions.

🧪 PHENOXYETHANOL / 苯氧乙醇

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: Can be irritating to sensitive skin at high concentrations.

Notes: Prevents bacterial growth.

🧪 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE / 对羟基苯乙酮

Purpose: Antioxidant, preservative booster

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used to reduce the need for stronger preservatives.