e.l.f. Holy Hydration! Makeup Melting Cleansing Balm

A nourishing oil-based cleanser infused with ceramides and peptides to support the skin barrier while dissolving makeup.

Performance Rating: 4.5

This formula presents as a highly effective oil-based cleanser or cleansing balm. The primary solvent system combines Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride with Sunflower Seed Oil, which is excellent for dissolving heavy makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum. The inclusion of PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a gold-standard emulsifier for cleansing oils, ensuring the product emulsifies effectively with water and rinses clean without leaving a greasy residue. The addition of a comprehensive Ceramide complex (Ceramides 1, 3, 6 II) and Peptides (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) adds a conditioning element that helps maintain the skin barrier during cleansing, preventing a ‘stripped’ feeling.

Safety Rating: 3.7

The formula avoids harsh surfactants like sulfates, relying instead on gentle oils and emulsifiers. However, the safety rating is impacted by the presence of Fragrance (Parfum) and specific fragrance allergens (Geraniol, Linalool), which are potential sensitizers for those with reactive or sensitive skin. While PEGs are generally considered safe in cosmetics, they are ethoxylated ingredients that some consumers prefer to avoid. The preservative system (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) is standard and effective.

Final Rating: 4.2

This is a sophisticated cleanser that bridges the gap between effective makeup removal and skincare treatment. The blend of emollients and effective emulsifiers promises high performance in cleansing power and rinsability. While the inclusion of expensive anti-aging ingredients like Peptides in a wash-off product usually offers diminishing returns, the Ceramide blend adds tangible value for barrier support. The only significant drawback is the inclusion of fragrance, which may limit its suitability for the most sensitive skin types.

Verdict

This product presents itself as a sophisticated oil-based cleanser or cleansing balm, designed to perform the dual function of effective makeup removal and skin conditioning. The primary base consists of Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, which are lightweight, synthetic emollients known for their ability to break down waterproof makeup and excess sebum rapidly without feeling heavy. These are complemented by Sunflower Seed Oil, providing a natural source of fatty acids and antioxidants to keep the skin soft.

What makes this formula stand out is its robust profile of restorative ingredients. It includes a specific blend of Ceramide 3, 6 II, and 1, alongside Phytosphingosine and Cholesterol. This combination mimics the skin’s natural lipid barrier, suggesting that the cleanser is formulated to prevent the stripping feeling often associated with washing the face. Additionally, the inclusion of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 indicates an anti-aging approach. While peptides in rinse-off products have limited efficacy compared to leave-on serums, their presence adds a luxurious, conditioning element to the routine.

The emulsification system relies on PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, a high-performance surfactant that allows the oil to mix with water and rinse off cleanly, leaving no greasy residue. This makes it an excellent choice for the first step in a double cleansing routine.

However, users should be aware of the sensory additives. The formula contains Fragrance (Parfum) as well as Geraniol and Linalool. While these provide a pleasant scent, they are known potential irritants. For individuals with robust skin, this adds to the spa-like experience, but for those with reactive or sensitive skin, these fragrant components could trigger redness or irritation. Overall, it is a highly effective cleanser for dry or aging skin, provided you tolerate fragrance well.

Who Is This Product For?

Individuals with dry or mature skin
Those needing to remove waterproof makeup or sunscreen
Fans of the double cleansing method

Who Should Avoid This Product?

People with fragrance sensitivity
Those with rosacea or highly reactive skin
Individuals who prefer oil-free formulas

Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Emollients & Oil Base / 柔润剂与油基

🧪 cetyl ethylhexanoate / 鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯

Purpose: Emollient, Texture Enhancer

Concerns: None

Notes: A synthetic ester that gives the product a smooth, non-greasy feel.

🧪 caprylic/capric triglyceride / 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯

Purpose: Emollient, Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: Derived from coconut oil and glycerin; helps to replenish skin’s surface.

🧪 hydrogenated polydecene / 氢化聚癸烯

Purpose: Emollient, Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: A synthetic polymer that provides a silky feeling and helps dissolve makeup.

🧪 helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil / 向日葵籽油

Purpose: Emollient, Antioxidant

Concerns: None

Notes: Rich in fatty acids and Vitamin E; helps repair the skin barrier.

🧪 hydrogenated sunflower seed oil / 氢化向日葵籽油

Purpose: Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: A stable form of sunflower oil used to control viscosity.

📁 Emulsifiers & Surfactants / 乳化剂与表面活性剂

🧪 peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate / PEG-20 甘油三异硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier, Surfactant

Concerns: PEG Contamination (Minimal risk)

Notes: Effective for rinsing off oils without stripping the skin; common in oil cleansers.

🧪 peg-10 isostearate / PEG-10 异硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier, Cleaning Agent

Concerns: PEG Contamination (Minimal risk)

Notes: Helps mix oil and water.

🧪 polysorbate 20 / 聚山梨醇酯-20

Purpose: Emulsifier, Solubilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps dissolve ingredients like fragrances into water.

🧪 sodium lauroyl lactylate / 月桂酰乳酰乳酸钠

Purpose: Emulsifier, Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used in ceramide blends to help them penetrate the skin.

📁 Barrier Repair & Anti-Aging Actives / 屏障修复与抗衰老活性成分

🧪 palmitoyl tripeptide-1 / 棕榈酰三肽-1

Purpose: Cell Communicating Ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Stimulates collagen production; part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

🧪 palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 / 棕榈酰四肽-7

Purpose: Cell Communicating Ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Reduces inflammation and stimulates skin regeneration; part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

🧪 ceramide 3 (NP) / 神经酰胺 3