La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo Milky Cleanser

A minimalist, surfactant-free cleanser formulated with Ethylhexyl Palmitate and Glycerin to gently remove impurities without stripping the skin barrier.

Performance Rating: 3.6

This formula is a surfactant-free, minimalist cleanser, likely taking the form of a gel or lotion. It relies on Ethylhexyl Palmitate (an emollient ester) to dissolve makeup and impurities effectively without stripping the skin’s natural oils. The inclusion of Glycerin ensures the skin remains hydrated during the cleansing process. While it is excellent for gentle, daily cleansing and preserving the moisture barrier, it may struggle with heavy, waterproof makeup compared to oil-based balms or strong foaming cleansers.

Safety Rating: 4.4

The product scores highly on safety due to its short ingredient list and lack of common irritants. It is fragrance-free and does not contain harsh sulfates or aggressive preservatives (using Caprylyl Glycol and Ethylhexylglycerin instead). This makes it ideal for sensitive or reactive skin. However, the primary emollient, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, has a high comedogenic rating, meaning it poses a risk of clogging pores for those with acne-prone skin, even in a rinse-off formula.

Final Rating: 3.9

Overall, this is a solid, utilitarian cleanser designed for efficacy without unnecessary additives. It is an excellent choice for dry, normal, or sensitive skin types that prefer a gentle, non-foaming cleanse. The minimalist formulation reduces the risk of allergic reactions significantly. Its main drawback is the potential for pore-clogging in oily skin types, but for its target demographic, it provides a safe and balancing clean.

Verdict

This formulation is a testament to the philosophy that less is often more in skincare. With a remarkably short ingredient list, this cleanser avoids the complexity that often leads to irritation. The most notable aspect of this product is what it lacks: traditional surfactants. There are no foaming agents, sulfates, or soaps present. Instead, the heavy lifting is done by Ethylhexyl Palmitate, a rich emollient ester that functions as a solvent to dissolve makeup and surface debris. This makes the product essentially a cream or gel-cream cleanser that focuses on softening the skin while cleaning it.

Because it relies on emollients rather than detergents, the risk of stripping the skin’s natural moisture barrier is virtually non-existent. Glycerin, a gold-standard humectant, is high on the list, ensuring that water is held against the skin to prevent dehydration during the wash. Dipropylene Glycol further aids in humectancy and texture, creating a smooth, spreadable consistency that reduces friction on delicate skin.

However, the profile of Ethylhexyl Palmitate requires scrutiny. While it is excellent for dry skin, it is moderately high on the comedogenic scale. This means that for individuals who struggle with clogged pores or fungal acne, this ingredient might exacerbate congestion, especially since there are no strong surfactants to wash it completely away if not rinsed thoroughly. It acts somewhat like a cleansing oil in a gel format.

The safety profile for sensitive skin is outstanding. The formula is free from fragrances, essential oils, and harsh preservatives. The use of Caprylyl Glycol and Ethylhexylglycerin provides a gentle preservation system that also boosts skin conditioning. Sodium Hydroxide is present strictly as a pH adjuster to neutralize the Carbomer thickener, ensuring the product is skin-neutral and pleasant to use.

In summary, this is a specialized product. It is likely too gentle for removing heavy waterproof makeup or deep-cleaning oily skin on its own. However, as a morning cleanser or a gentle second step in a double-cleanse routine for dry types, it is a superior, barrier-supportive choice.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvents / 溶剂

🧪 WATER/AQUA / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: The main carrier and base for the product.

🧪 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL / 双丙甘醇

Purpose: Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent

Concerns: Generally safe, very low risk of irritation

Notes: Helps dissolve other ingredients and enhances penetration.

📁 Moisturizers & Emollients / 保湿剂与润肤剂

🧪 GLYCERIN / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A common and effective ingredient that draws moisture into the skin.

🧪 ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE / 棕榈酸乙基己酯

Purpose: Emollient, Solvent, Texture Enhancer

Concerns: Potentially comedogenic (may clog pores) for acne-prone skin

Notes: Provides a dry-slip feel similar to silicone.

📁 Texture & pH Adjusters / 质地与pH调节剂

🧪 CARBOMER / 卡波姆

Purpose: Thickener, Emulsion Stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Creates a gel-like consistency and stabilizes the formula.

🧪 SODIUM HYDROXIDE / 氢氧化钠

Purpose: pH Adjuster

Concerns: Irritant in pure form, but safe in small amounts used for pH balancing

Notes: Used to neutralize Carbomer to activate its thickening properties.

📁 Preservatives & Conditioners / 防腐与调理剂

🧪 CAPRYL GLYCOL/CAPRYLYL GLYCOL / 辛甘醇

Purpose: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Preservative Booster

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used in combination with other preservatives to protect the formula.

🧪 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN / 乙基己基甘油

Purpose: Preservative Booster, Skin Conditioning, Deodorant Agent

Concerns: Rare instances of contact allergy

Notes: Enhances the efficacy of preservatives and improves skin feel.