A classic, thick cream cleanser featuring a signature blend of Eucalyptus, Menthol, and Camphor for a deep cooling sensation, supported by Soybean and Linseed oils.
This formula relies on a classic, old-school mechanism. The high content of Linseed and Soybean oils makes it an effective thick cream cleanser capable of dissolving oil-based makeup and heavy grime. The combination of Camphor, Menthol, and Eucalyptus provides a strong ‘tingling’ or cooling sensation that many users associate with deep cleaning. However, the use of Stearic Acid neutralized by Ammonium Hydroxide suggests a soap-based cleanse that leaves the skin feeling ‘squeaky clean,’ which often indicates that the skin’s natural oils have been stripped away alongside the dirt.
This ingredient list presents significant safety and irritation concerns by modern standards. The presence of Phenol is a major red flag; it is a toxic compound and strong irritant often restricted or banned in cosmetics depending on concentration and region. The ‘medicinal’ combination of Camphor, Menthol, Eucalyptus Oil, and Fragrance creates a very high risk of contact dermatitis and sensitization, particularly for the delicate eye area and sensitive skin. Furthermore, the inclusion of Ammonium Hydroxide and Calcium Hydroxide (strong alkalis) indicates a high pH, which disrupts the skin’s protective acid mantle.
While this formula is likely a cult classic (resembling the traditional Noxzema recipe) known for its distinct smell and ability to remove theatrical makeup or soothe sunburns, it is formulationally outdated. The cleaning power is effective, but it comes at the cost of skin health. The reliance on volatile essential oils, Phenol, and high-alkalinity ingredients makes it too harsh for daily facial use for most skin types. It poses a risk of damaging the skin barrier and causing long-term irritation.
This ingredient list represents a legendary, “old-school” cream cleanser formulation, instantly recognizable by its reliance on medicinal aromatic compounds. The base consists of Stearic Acid, Linseed Oil, and Soybean Oil, which create a rich, thick texture capable of dissolving stubborn oil-based makeup and surface debris effectively. These emollients ensure that the skin is not stripped entirely of moisture during the cleansing process, providing a soft after-feel that contrasts with foaming gels. However, the defining characteristic of this product is its sensory impact, driven by a potent blend of Camphor, Menthol, Eucalyptus Oil, and Phenol. This combination delivers a signature “tingle” and cooling sensation that many users historically associate with deep cleaning. While refreshing to some, it is crucial to understand that this sensation is often a biological sign of skin irritation. Camphor and Menthol are counter-irritants that can increase blood flow but may also cause significant sensitivity, especially near the delicate eye area or on broken skin. The inclusion of Phenol is rare in modern cosmetics due to safety concerns regarding toxicity and harshness, although it serves an antiseptic function here. Furthermore, the presence of Ammonium Hydroxide and Sodium Bicarbonate suggests a highly alkaline pH. Healthy skin is naturally acidic (around pH 5.5), and disrupting this acid mantle with high-pH cleansers can lead to dehydration, bacteria growth, and a compromised moisture barrier over time. While the added Gelatin aids in texture and Propylene Glycol offers some humectant properties, they cannot entirely offset the potential aggression of the active aromatics and alkaline adjusters. This product is a relic of a time when “feeling it burn” meant it was working. For the vast majority of modern consumers—especially those educated on barrier health—this formula is likely too harsh for daily use. It is best reserved for those with extremely resilient, oily skin who are attached to the nostalgic sensory experience, rather than those seeking gentle, physiological skincare.
🧪 Water / 水
Purpose: Solvent
Concerns: None
Notes: The base of the formula.
🧪 Propylene Glycol / 丙二醇
Purpose: Humectant, Solvent
Concerns: Potential skin irritation for sensitive skin.
Notes: Helps skin retain moisture and improves texture.
🧪 Stearic Acid / 硬脂酸
Purpose: Emulsifier, Emollient
Concerns: Low risk; can be comedogenic for some oily skin types.
Notes: Helps combine oil and water and softens the skin.
🧪 Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil / 亚麻籽油
Purpose: Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Concerns: None
Notes: Rich in omega-3 fatty acids, soothing for the skin.
🧪 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil / 野大豆油
Purpose: Emollient, Antioxidant
Concerns: None
Notes: Smoothes skin and provides antioxidants.
🧪 Gelatin / 明胶
Purpose: Film Former, Viscosity Controlling
Concerns: Non-vegan (animal derived).
Notes: Used to create texture and a protective film on the skin.
🧪 Camphor / 樟脑
Purpose: Cooling Agent, Anti-pruritic
Concerns: Can be irritating; toxic in high concentrations.
Notes: Provides a distinct cooling and tingling sensation.
🧪 Phenol / 苯酚
Purpose: Antimicrobial, Exfoliant
Concerns: High safety concern; corrosive, toxic, and irritating. Restricted or banned in cosmetics in many regions.
Notes: Historically used for antiseptic properties but rarely seen in modern formulations due to safety profile.
🧪 Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil / 蓝桉叶油
Purpose: Fragrance, Skin Conditioning
Concerns: Potential allergen and sensitizer.
Notes: Provides a medicinal, refreshing scent.
🧪 Menthol / 薄荷醇
Purpose: Cooling Agent, Fragrance
Concerns: Can be sensitizing and irritating to eyes.
Notes: Derived from peppermint; creates a cooling effect.
🧪 Fragrance / 香精
Purpose: Scent
Concerns: Common cause of allergic contact dermatitis.
Notes: Synthetic or natural scent mixture.
🧪 Ammonium Hydroxide / 氢氧化铵
Purpose: pH Adjuster
Concerns: Irritating in high concentrations.
Notes: Used to stabilize the pH of the product.
🧪 Calcium Hydroxide / 氢氧化钙
Purpose: pH Adjuster
Concerns: Strongly alkaline; can be irritating.
Notes: Also known as limewater when dissolved.
🧪 Sodium Bicarbonate / 碳酸氢钠
Purpose: pH Adjuster, Abrasive
Concerns: Can disrupt skin barrier if pH is too high.
Notes: Commonly known as baking soda.
🧪 Calcium Chloride / 氯化钙
Purpose: Viscosity Controlling
Concerns: None in small amounts.
Notes: A salt used to adjust texture.
🧪 Magnesium Sulfate / 硫酸镁
Purpose: Bulking Agent, Viscosity Controlling
Concerns: None.
Notes: Commonly known as Epsom salt.
🧪 Potassium Chloride / 氯化钾
Purpose: Viscosity Controlling
Concerns: None.
Notes: Used to thicken the aqueous phase.