Vanicream Enhanced Moisturizer

A robust, fragrance-free moisturizer packed with a complex of five ceramides and phytosterols designed to intensely repair the skin barrier.

Performance Rating: 4.6

This formula is an excellent example of a barrier-repairing moisturizer. It features a robust Ceramide complex (NG, AS, AP, NP, EOP) combined with Phytosterols and Hydrogenated Lecithin, mimicking the skin’s natural lipid structure to restore barrier function. Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate provide effective hydration, while Dimethicone and C32-54 Isoalkane create a protective seal to prevent transepidermal water loss. It is highly effective for dry or compromised skin.

Safety Rating: 4.8

The ingredient list is free from common irritants such as fragrance, essential oils, and drying alcohols (Stearyl Alcohol is a beneficial fatty alcohol). The preservative system (Caprylyl Glycol, Hexanediol) is generally well-tolerated. It is highly suitable for sensitive skin types.

Final Rating: 4.7

A superior daily moisturizer focused on hydration and barrier support. While it lacks aggressive active ingredients for anti-aging or brightening, it excels at its primary purpose. The inclusion of multiple ceramides and skin-identical ingredients makes it a high-quality choice for maintaining skin health.

Verdict

This facial moisturizer is an impressive formulation specifically engineered for barrier repair and deep hydration. At the heart of the ingredients list lies a comprehensive ceramide complex, featuring Ceramide NG, AS, AP, NP, and EOP. These lipids are skin-identical ingredients that play a crucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of the skin’s barrier function. By replenishing these essential lipids, the product helps to lock in moisture and keep irritants out, making it an ideal choice for compromised or sensitive skin. Supporting the ceramide profile are phytosterols and hydrogenated lecithin. Phytosterols act similarly to cholesterol in the skin, soothing inflammation and further fortifying the lipid barrier. The inclusion of glycerin, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, and sodium hyaluronate ensures that the skin receives a significant boost of water-based hydration. These humectants draw moisture from the environment into the skin, plumping fine lines and relieving tightness immediately upon application. In terms of texture and finish, the formula utilizes dimethicone and C32-54 isoalkane. While some prefer to avoid silicones, dimethicone is non-comedogenic and provides a protective, breathable seal over the skin that prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This creates a silky, non-tacky finish that layers well under sunscreen or makeup. The presence of polyacrylate crosspolymer-11 suggests a modern, gel-cream consistency that feels substantial yet spreads effortlessly. Notably, this formulation is free from common irritants such as fragrance, essential oils, and drying simple alcohols. The preservation system, utilizing caprylyl glycol and hexanediol, is gentle and generally well-tolerated. However, the presence of stearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate—while excellent emollients—might prove too rich for those with extremely oily or congestion-prone skin types. Overall, this is a meticulously designed moisturizer that prioritizes skin health and barrier restoration over trendy marketing claims.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Moisturizers & Barrier Repair / 保湿与屏障修复

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant that draws moisture into the skin.

Concerns: None.

Notes: A standard, effective moisturizing ingredient.

🧪 Ceramide NG / 神经酰胺 NG

Purpose: Restores skin barrier and retains moisture.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Part of the skin-identical lipid matrix.

🧪 Ceramide AS / 神经酰胺 AS

Purpose: Strengthens the skin barrier.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Helps in maintaining skin hydration.

🧪 Ceramide AP / 神经酰胺 AP

Purpose: Skin replenishing and barrier repair.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Essential for healthy skin structure.

🧪 Ceramide NP / 神经酰胺 NP

Purpose: Improves skin barrier function.

Concerns: None.

Notes: One of the most common ceramides used in skincare.

🧪 Ceramide EOP / 神经酰胺 EOP

Purpose: Barrier repair and protection.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Works synergistically with other ceramides.

🧪 Phytosterols / 植物甾醇

Purpose: Plant-derived lipids that soothe and repair skin.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Mimics cholesterol in the skin barrier.

🧪 Sodium Hyaluronate / 透明质酸钠

Purpose: Deep hydration.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Salt form of hyaluronic acid; holds 1000x its weight in water.

🧪 Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate / 氢化淀粉水解物

Purpose: Humectant and film former.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Prevents moisture loss.

📁 Emollients / 柔润剂

🧪 Dimethicone / 聚二甲基硅氧烷

Purpose: Provides slip and forms a protective breathable seal.

Concerns: Some users perceive it as clogging, though generally non-comedogenic.

Notes: A common silicone used for texture.

🧪 C32-54 Isoalkane / C32-54 异链烷烃

Purpose: Solvent and emollient.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Provides a smooth feel.

🧪 C12-18 Alkanoyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer / C12-18 烷酰基甘油/癸二酸共聚物

Purpose: Emollient and film-forming agent.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Helps protect the skin barrier.

📁 Emulsifiers & Texture Enhancers / 乳化剂与质地调节剂

🧪 Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate / 聚甘油-2 硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Helps mix oil and water phases.

🧪 Glyceryl Stearate / 甘油硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier and skin conditioner.

Concerns: Can be comedogenic for some oily skin types.

Notes: Leaves skin feeling soft.

🧪 Sucrose Laurate / 月桂酸蔗糖酯

Purpose: Emulsifier and mild surfactant.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Sugar-based and gentle.

🧪 Hydrogenated Lecithin / 氢化卵磷脂

Purpose: Emulsifier and skin-restoring ingredient.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Enhances penetration of other ingredients.

🧪 Stearyl Alcohol / 硬脂醇

Purpose: Fatty alcohol used as an emollient and thickener.

Concerns: Low risk of irritation.

Notes: Good for dry skin; not a drying alcohol.

🧪 Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11 / 聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-11

Purpose: Thickening and stabilizing agent.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Improves the texture of the formula.

📁 Solvents, Preservatives & Stabilizers / 溶剂、防腐剂与稳定剂

🧪 Water / 水

Purpose: Solvent base.

Concerns: None.

Notes: The primary carrier for ingredients.

🧪 Caprylyl Glycol / 辛甘醇

Purpose: Humectant and preservative booster.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Also conditions the skin.

🧪 1,1-Hexanediol / 1,1-己二醇

Purpose: Solvent and preservative booster.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Listed as 1,1-Hexanediol, though likely a typo for the common cosmetic ingredient 1,2-Hexanediol.