Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Water Cream Fragrance Free

A sophisticated, barrier-repairing moisturizer formulated with Ceramides, Cholesterol esters, and a comprehensive Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) complex to mimic healthy skin physiology.

Performance Rating: 4.7

This is an exceptionally well-formulated moisturizer focused on Barrier Repair and NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) restoration. It features a robust complex of Amino Acids (Serine, Glycine, Alanine, etc.), Urea, Sodium PCA, and Sodium Lactate to mimic the skin’s natural hydration system. The lipid phase is equally impressive, utilizing Ceramide NP and C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters to strengthen the skin barrier. Sodium Hyaluronate and Trehalose provide deep hydration. The use of Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate creates a liquid crystal structure that integrates well with the skin. The only caveat is Isopropyl Palmitate, which makes the product rich and spreadable but can be comedogenic (pore-clogging) for acne-prone skin.

Safety Rating: 4.5

The profile is highly favorable for sensitive skin as it is Fragrance-Free, free from Essential Oils, and contains no Drying Alcohols. It utilizes a modern, gentle preservation system consisting of 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, and Tropolone. Additionally, Allantoin is included to actively soothe irritation. There are no controversial parabens or formaldehyde releasers present.

Final Rating: 4.6

This is a superior moisturizer for dry, dehydrated, or sensitive skin types. Its strength lies in its biomimetic approach, supplying the skin with the exact components (Ceramides, Cholesterol, Amino Acids) it needs to maintain health. While those with very oily or acne-prone skin should patch test due to the Isopropyl Palmitate, the overall formulation is sophisticated, effective, and safe.

Verdict

This facial moisturizer is an impressively formulated product that prioritizes barrier repair and biomimetic hydration. Rather than relying solely on simple occlusives to sit on top of the skin, this formula dives deeper by utilizing ingredients that mimic the skin’s intrinsic biological makeup. The standout feature here is the sophisticated blend of lipids. By combining Ceramide NP with C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters and fatty acids like Stearic Acid and Palmitic Acid, the formulation attempts to recreate the biological “brick and mortar” structure of a healthy stratum corneum. This synergy is crucial for fixing a damaged moisture barrier, making this an exceptional choice for skin that feels raw, over-exfoliated, or chronically dry.

Beyond the lipid layer, the water-soluble phase of this cream is equally robust. It contains a highly comprehensive Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) complex. Ingredients such as Sodium PCA, Urea, Sodium Lactate, and a long list of Amino Acids (including Arginine, Glycine, Serine, and Proline) work together to hold water within the skin cells, maintaining elasticity and preventing trans-epidermal water loss. The addition of Sodium Hyaluronate provides immediate surface hydration, while water-binding sugars like Trehalose, Maltose, and Glucose ensure that moisture is sustained throughout the day.

The texture and delivery system are managed by Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate, which are olive-derived liquid crystal emulsifiers known for being highly compatible with the skin, providing a smooth and luxurious application. Dimethicone is included to provide a protective seal and a silky finish, preventing the formula from feeling too tacky or heavy. Additionally, Allantoin adds a soothing element, helping to calm redness or irritation often associated with extreme dryness.

However, the inclusion of Isopropyl Palmitate warrants caution for specific skin types. While it is a fantastic emollient that makes the skin feel instantly soft and velvety, it is known to be potentially comedogenic. This means it has a higher likelihood of clogging pores in individuals prone to congestion. Consequently, while this moisturizer is likely a “holy grail” product for dry, mature, and compromised skin types, it poses a risk for those currently struggling with acne or clogged pores. Overall, this is a science-forward formula excellent for restoring health to a depleted skin barrier.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvents / 溶剂

🧪 Water / 水

Purpose: Solvent base

Concerns: None

Notes: The primary component of the formula.

🧪 Pentylene Glycol / 戊二醇

Purpose: Solvent, Humectant, Preservative booster

Concerns: Low risk of irritation

Notes: Helps stabilize the texture and boost antimicrobial properties.

📁 Humectants & Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) / 保湿剂与天然保湿因子

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A classic, highly effective ingredient for drawing moisture into the skin.

🧪 Sodium Hyaluronate / 透明质酸钠

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Salt form of Hyaluronic Acid; holds significant water weight.

🧪 Sodium PCA / 吡咯烷酮羧酸钠

Purpose: Humectant, Skin-identical ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: A major component of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor.

🧪 PCA / 吡咯烷酮羧酸

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Precursor to Sodium PCA, helps maintain hydration.

🧪 Sodium Lactate / 乳酸钠

Purpose: Humectant, Buffering agent

Concerns: Sun sensitivity (minor)

Notes: Part of the NMF; can have mild exfoliating properties at high concentrations.

🧪 Urea / 尿素

Purpose: Humectant, Keratolytic

Concerns: Can sting compromised skin

Notes: Excellent for softening rough skin.

🧪 Betaine / 甜菜碱

Purpose: Humectant, Anti-irritant

Concerns: None

Notes: Balances water in skin cells.

🧪 Allantoin / 尿囊素

Purpose: Soothing agent, Skin protectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps heal and soothe irritated skin.

🧪 Amino Acids (Serine, Glycine, Alanine, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Lysine HCl, Glutamic Acid) / 氨基酸群 (丝氨酸, 甘氨酸, 丙氨酸, 苏氨酸, 精氨酸, 脯氨酸, 赖氨酸 HCl, 谷氨酸)

Purpose: Skin conditioning, Hydration

Concerns: None

Notes: Building blocks of skin proteins and peptides; vital for barrier maintenance.

🧪 Sugars (Fructose, Maltose, Trehalose, Glucose) / 糖类 (果糖, 麦芽糖, 海藻糖, 葡萄糖)

Purpose: Humectant, Water-binding

Concerns: None

Notes: Trehalose specifically helps plants survive desiccation; protects skin structures.

📁 Emollients & Barrier Repair / 柔润剂与屏障修护

🧪 Isopropyl Palmitate / 棕榈酸异丙酯

Purpose: Emollient, Texture enhancer

Concerns: Comedogenic (Can clog pores)

Notes: Makes skin feel silky but may cause breakouts in acne-prone skin.

🧪 Cetyl Alcohol / 鲸蜡醇

Purpose: Emollient, Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: A fatty alcohol that is non-drying and conditions the skin.

🧪 C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters / C10-30 酸胆固醇/羊毛甾醇混合酯

Purpose: Emollient, Barrier repair

Concerns: Not vegan (Lanosterol is from wool grease)

Notes: Highly effective at mimicking skin lipids for barrier repair.

🧪 Ceramide NP / 神经酰胺 NP

Purpose: Skin-identical ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Critical for a healthy skin barrier function.

🧪 Stearic Acid / 硬脂酸

Purpose: Emollient, Emulsifying agent

Concerns: Low risk of comedogenicity

Notes: A fatty acid helping to restore the barrier.

🧪 Palmitic Acid / 棕榈酸

Purpose: Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: Found naturally in skin; reinforces lipid barrier.

🧪 Dimethicone / 聚二甲基硅氧烷

Purpose: Occlusive, Emollient

Concerns: Silicones are disliked by some consumers

Notes: Forms a breathable barrier to prevent moisture loss and provides slip.

📁 Emulsifiers & Texture Enhancers / 乳化剂与质地调节剂

🧪 Cetearyl Olivate / 鲸蜡硬脂醇橄榄油酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Derived from olive oil; forms liquid crystal structures compatible with skin.

🧪 Sorbitan Olivate / 山梨坦橄榄油酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Usually paired with Cetearyl Olivate for a biomimetic emulsifying system.

🧪 Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 / 聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6

Purpose: Thickener, Texture stabilizer

Concerns: Synthetic polymer

Notes: Provides a smooth, velvet-like finish to the product.

🧪 Sodium Chloride / 氯化钠

Purpose: Viscosity controller

Concerns: None

Notes: Common salt; thickens the water phase.

📁 Preservatives, Stabilizers & pH Adjusters / 防腐剂、稳定剂与酸碱调节剂

🧪 Ethylhexylglycerin / 乙基己基甘油

Purpose: Preservative booster, Skin conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used as an alternative to parabens.

🧪 Caprylyl Glycol / 辛甘醇

Purpose: Humectant, Preservative booster

Concerns: None

Notes: Improves the efficacy of other preservatives.

🧪 1,2-Hexanediol / 1,2-己二醇

Purpose: Solvent, Preservative

Concerns: None

Notes: A gentle preservative and humectant.

🧪 Tropolone / 托酚酮

Purpose: Preservative, Antioxidant

Concerns: None

Notes: Broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity.

🧪 Citric Acid / 柠檬酸

Purpose: pH Adjuster, Chelator

Concerns: None

Notes: Ensures the product is pH balanced for the skin.

🧪 Sodium Hydroxide / 氢氧化钠

Purpose: pH Adjuster

Concerns: Irritant in pure form

Notes: Used in tiny amounts to neutralize acids; safe in final formulation.