Honest Ageless Firm + Smooth Cream

A fragrance-free facial cream formulated with biotech vegan collagen and multi-weight hyaluronic acid to deeply hydrate and support the skin barrier.

Performance Rating: 4.5

This formula offers excellent performance by combining advanced biotechnology with proven barrier-repairing ingredients. It features sh-Polypeptide-121 and sh-Polypeptide-50, which are bio-designed vegan collagen peptides intended to promote elasticity and firmness. Hydration is addressed via a multi-depth approach using Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate and Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate alongside Glycerin. The base of Sunflower Seed Oil and Shea Butter provides rich emollience and essential fatty acids for barrier support, while Dimethicone ensures a smooth, non-tacky application and prevents transepidermal water loss.

Safety Rating: 4.5

The safety profile is very strong, particularly for sensitive skin types, as it is free from synthetic fragrances, drying alcohols, and potentially irritating preservatives like parabens or formaldehyde releasers. Instead, it uses a gentle preservation system consisting of 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, and Potassium Sorbate. While Thyme Extract provides antioxidant benefits, it is the only botanical entry that might pose a minor risk to extremely reactive skin, though the concentration appears low.

Final Rating: 4.5

This is a sophisticated, well-rounded moisturizer that successfully merges clean beauty standards with clinical efficacy. The inclusion of cutting-edge peptides for anti-aging, combined with a fragrance-free and lipid-rich base, makes it suitable for a wide range of skin types, including dry and aging skin. It effectively tackles hydration, barrier repair, and texture improvement without relying on harsh chemicals.

Verdict

This moisturizer presents a sophisticated fusion of biomimetic technology and comforting botanical lipids, making it an excellent choice for those seeking barrier repair alongside anti-aging benefits. At the heart of the formula are sh-Polypeptide-121 and sh-Polypeptide-50, which are vegan collagen peptides. Unlike traditional hydrolyzed collagen which acts primarily as a moisturizer, these bio-designed peptides are engineered to signal the skin to improve firmness and elasticity, offering a modern approach to maintaining a youthful complexion.

The hydration system is equally impressive. It utilizes a combination of Glycerin and specialized forms of hyaluronic acid, including Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate. Often referred to as “super hyaluronic acid,” this variant has a higher affinity for the skin, allowing for longer-lasting moisture retention compared to standard versions. This aqueous hydration is locked in by a robust lipid profile featuring Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil and Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter. Sunflower oil is particularly beneficial as it is rich in linoleic acid, a fatty acid essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier, while Shea butter adds a rich, occlusive layer to prevent transepidermal water loss.

From a textural standpoint, the product employs olive-derived emulsifiers (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) and a touch of Dimethicone. This combination likely results in a cream that feels luxurious and silky upon application without being overly heavy or greasy. The formula is also notable for what it lacks; it is free from volatile alcohols and essential oils, reducing the risk of irritation.

Overall, this is a well-balanced formula. It provides the heavy-hitting moisture required for dry or dehydrated skin while utilizing fermented ingredients and peptides to address texture and bounce. It is gentle enough for sensitive users yet active enough for those focused on healthy aging.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvents & Humectants / 溶剂与保湿剂

🧪 Water (Aqua/Eau) / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: The base of the formulation.

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A classic, effective skin-replenishing ingredient.

🧪 Propanediol / 丙二醇

Purpose: Humectant, Solvent

Concerns: Low risk of irritation

Notes: Often used as a natural alternative to propylene glycol; improves absorption.

🧪 Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate / 水解透明质酸钠

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid for deeper penetration.

🧪 Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate / 乙酰化透明质酸钠

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A modified form of HA with higher affinity for the skin and longer-lasting hydration.

🧪 Xylitol / 木糖醇

Purpose: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps skin retain natural moisture and strengthens the barrier.

📁 Emollients, Oils & Butters / 润肤剂、油与脂

🧪 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil / 向日葵籽油

Purpose: Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: Rich in linoleic acid; helps repair skin barrier.

🧪 Isostearyl Hydroxystearate / 羟基硬脂酸异硬脂酯

Purpose: Emollient

Concerns: Comedogenicity (Low)

Notes: Improves spreadability and skin feel.

🧪 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride / 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯

Purpose: Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: Derived from coconut oil and glycerin; light texture.

🧪 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter / 牛油果树果脂

Purpose: Emollient, Occlusive

Concerns: Heavy texture for oily skin

Notes: Excellent for dry skin; rich in antioxidants.

🧪 Dimethicone / 聚二甲基硅氧烷

Purpose: Emollient, Occlusive

Concerns: Trapped bacteria (if not cleansed properly)

Notes: Provides a silky slip and forms a protective barrier to prevent water loss.

📁 Active Ingredients (Peptides & Extracts) / 活性成分(胜肽与提取物)

🧪 sh-Polypeptide-121 / 合成人多肽-121

Purpose: Anti-aging, Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: A vegan, bio-designed collagen peptide.

🧪 sh-Polypeptide-50 / 合成人多肽-50

Purpose: Anti-aging, Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: A bio-designed elastin peptide.

🧪 Saccharomyces/Sugarcane Juice Extract Ferment Extract / 酵母菌/甘蔗汁提取物发酵产物提取物

Purpose: Exfoliant, Skin Conditioning

Concerns: Potential sensitivity

Notes: A natural source of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or enzymes for gentle renewal.

🧪 Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Extract / 麝香草花/叶提取物

Purpose: Antioxidant, Antimicrobial

Concerns: Potential allergen (essential oil components)

Notes: Can have soothing and purifying properties.

🧪 Tocopherol / 生育酚 (维生素E)

Purpose: Antioxidant

Concerns: None

Notes: Pure Vitamin E; protects skin and formula from oxidation.

📁 Emulsifiers & Texture Enhancers / 乳化剂与质地调节剂

🧪 Brassica Alcohol / 芸苔醇

Purpose: Thickener, Emulsion Stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: A palm-free fatty alcohol derived from brassica.

🧪 Cetyl Alcohol / 鲸蜡醇

Purpose: Emollient, Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: A fatty alcohol that softens skin and thickens the cream.

🧪 Cetearyl Olivate / 鲸蜡硬脂醇橄榄油酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Derived from olive oil; often paired with Sorbitan Olivate.

🧪 Sorbitan Olivate / 山梨坦橄榄油酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Derived from olive oil; creates liquid crystal structures mimicking skin barrier.

🧪 Magnesium Aluminum Silicate / 硅酸铝镁

Purpose: Thickener, Absorbent

Concerns: None

Notes: A natural mineral clay used to stabilize emulsions.

🧪 Xanthan Gum / 黄原胶

Purpose: Thickener, Stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Natural polysaccharide used to adjust viscosity.

🧪 Lecithin / 卵磷脂

Purpose: Emollient, Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Phospholipid that restores skin and binds water.

🧪 Cetyl Palmitate / 鲸蜡醇棕榈酸酯

Purpose: Emollient, Texture Enhancer

Concerns: None

Notes: Gives body to the cream.

🧪 Sorbitan Palmitate / 山梨坦棕榈酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Co-emulsifier.

🧪 Myristyl Alcohol / 肉豆蔻醇

Purpose: Emollient, Thickener

Concerns: Comedogenicity (Low-Medium)

Notes: Fatty alcohol.

🧪 Stearyl Alcohol / 硬脂醇

Purpose: Emollient, Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: Fatty alcohol.

🧪 Lauryl Alcohol / 月桂醇

Purpose: Emollient, Emulsion Stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Fatty alcohol.

📁 Preservatives, Stabilizers & pH Adjusters / 防腐剂、稳定剂与酸碱调节剂

🧪 Caprylic Acid / 辛酸

Purpose: Emollient, Preservative Booster

Concerns: None

Notes: Fatty acid with antimicrobial properties.

🧪 1,2-Hexanediol / 1,2-己二醇

Purpose: Preservative, Solvent

Concerns: Low risk of irritation

Notes: Broad spectrum antimicrobial activity.

🧪 Caprylhydroxamic Acid / 辛酰羟肟酸

Purpose: Chelator, Preservative

Concerns: None

Notes: Prevents mold and bacteria growth; fungistatic.

🧪 Isostearyl Alcohol / 异硬脂醇

Purpose: Emollient, Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: Often helps dissolve other ingredients.

🧪 Hydroxystearic Acid / 羟基硬脂酸

Purpose: Surfactant, Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: Used to stabilize the formula.

🧪 Citric Acid / 柠檬酸

Purpose: pH Adjuster

Concerns: Irritation if pH is too low (unlikely here)

Notes: Used to balance the acidity of the product.

🧪 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate / 乙二胺二琥珀酸三钠

Purpose: Chelating Agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Biodegradable alternative to EDTA; neutralizes metal ions to prevent spoilage.

🧪 Potassium Sorbate / 山梨酸钾

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: None

Notes: Effective against fungi and mold.

🧪 Sodium Benzoate / 苯甲酸钠

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used in combination with Potassium Sorbate.