Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Oil-Free Refillable Moisturizer

A lightweight, gel-textured moisturizer formulated with sebum-regulating Sarcosine, exfoliating acids, and cooling agents to hydrate oily skin while refining pore appearance.

Performance Rating: 4.3

This formula offers a strong balance of hydration and texture refinement, making it particularly suitable for combination or oily skin types. Key humectants like Glycerin, Propanediol, and Biosaccharide Gum-1 ensure deep moisture retention, while Dimethicone and Isononyl Isononanoate provide a smooth, non-greasy finish. The inclusion of HEPES (Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid) and Salicylic Acid adds mild exfoliating properties to smooth skin texture and keep pores clear. Additionally, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract provides regenerative and protective benefits. The addition of Menthoxypropanediol suggests a cooling sensation, which can feel refreshing.

Safety Rating: 4.1

The profile is generally safe for most users, relying on standard preservatives like Phenoxyethanol and Chlorphenesin. However, the presence of Menthoxypropanediol (a menthol derivative) introduces a potential risk of irritation or sensitization for those with very sensitive skin or rosacea due to its cooling/tingling effect. Salicylic Acid and HEPES are effective but can potentially cause mild stinging in compromised skin barriers. It is free from parabens and harsh sulfates.

Final Rating: 4.2

This is a well-engineered moisturizer, likely a gel-cream formulation, designed to hydrate without weighing the skin down. It excels in performance for users looking for oil control and smoothing benefits alongside moisturization, thanks to the synergy of silicones, ferment extracts, and mild acids. While the cooling agent makes it refreshing, it slightly limits the audience regarding sensitive skin types. Overall, it is a highly effective product for maintaining a clear, hydrated complexion.

Verdict

This formulation presents itself as a sophisticated, lightweight moisturizer designed specifically to address the concerns of oily and congested skin types. The foundation of the product is built upon a hydration system utilizing Glycerin and Propanediol, supported by Dimethicone. This combination suggests a texture that is fluid, fast-absorbing, and capable of creating a breathable seal over the skin without the heaviness associated with traditional oils or butters. It is clearly engineered to provide a non-greasy finish, making it an excellent candidate for daytime use under makeup or sunscreen.

The ingredient list distinguishes itself through a focus on skin renewal and oil control. The inclusion of HEPES (Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid) acts as a buffering agent that promotes enzymatic exfoliation, gently encouraging the shedding of dead skin cells to reveal a smoother surface. This is chemically supported by Salicylic Acid, a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) famous for its ability to penetrate lipid layers and unclog pores. Although the Salicylic Acid appears lower on the list, its presence alongside Sarcosine indicates a targeted approach to reduce excess shine and manage sebum production throughout the day.

Further enhancing the formula is Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, a peptide-rich ingredient derived from marine bacteria, often used to protect the skin against dryness while reducing roughness and oiliness. To counterbalance the potential drying effects of the exfoliants, Biosaccharide Gum-1 is included for its soothing, fermented sugar properties, creating a moisture-binding film on the skin. Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) adds a necessary layer of antioxidant protection against environmental stressors.

However, potential users should be aware of the sensory additives. The presence of Menthoxypropanediol, a synthetic derivative of menthol, ensures the product delivers a potent cooling sensation upon application. While this can feel incredibly refreshing and is often marketed as ‘energizing,’ menthol derivatives can be sensitizing. Consequently, this creates a polarity in the product’s suitability: it is excellent for robust, oily skin that needs a fresh feel, but potentially problematic for delicate skin barriers.

In summary, this is a highly active moisturizer best suited for oily to combination skin looking for pore refinement. It effectively bridges the gap between hydration and treatment, but the inclusion of exfoliants and cooling agents suggests it should be used with caution by those with reactive skin conditions.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvents & Humectants / 溶剂与保湿剂

🧪 AQUA / WATER / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: The base of the formulation, dissolving other ingredients.

🧪 GLYCERIN / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A skin-identical ingredient that attracts moisture to the skin.

🧪 PROPANEDIOL / 丙二醇

Purpose: Solvent, Humectant

Concerns: Generally safe, rare sensitivity

Notes: Often used as a natural alternative to propylene glycol; improves absorption.

🧪 BUTYLENE GLYCOL / 丁二醇

Purpose: Solvent, Humectant

Concerns: Very low risk of irritation

Notes: Helps textures spread nicely and improves penetration of actives.

🧪 PENTYLENE GLYCOL / 戊二醇

Purpose: Solvent, Humectant

Concerns: Low risk

Notes: Also has mild antimicrobial properties, helping to stabilize the formula.

🧪 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL / 辛甘醇

Purpose: Humectant, Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: Often paired with preservatives to boost their efficacy.

🧪 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 / 生物糖 胶-1

Purpose: Humectant, Soothing

Concerns: None

Notes: A fermented sugar that creates a moisture-binding film on the skin.

📁 Emollients & Texture Modifiers / 柔润剂与质地调节剂

🧪 DIMETHICONE / 聚二甲基硅氧烷

Purpose: Emollient, Occlusive

Concerns: Trapping impurities (rare)

Notes: Provides a silky slip and forms a breathable barrier to prevent moisture loss.

🧪 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE / 异壬酸异壬酯

Purpose: Emollient

Concerns: None

Notes: A synthetic ester that gives a dry, silky feel without being greasy.

🧪 DIMETHICONOL / 聚二甲基硅氧烷醇

Purpose: Emollient, Texture Enhancer

Concerns: None

Notes: A silicone gum often blended with dimethicone to fill fine lines and smooth texture.

🧪 CARBOMER / 卡波姆

Purpose: Thickener, Texture Enhancer

Concerns: None

Notes: Create gel-like textures and stabilizes emulsions.

🧪 XANTHAN GUM / 黄原胶

Purpose: Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: Natural thickener derived from fermentation.

📁 Active Ingredients & Exfoliants / 活性成分与去角质剂

🧪 HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZINE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID / 羟乙基哌嗪乙烷磺酸

Purpose: Buffering Agent, Exfoliant

Concerns: Can increase skin permeability

Notes: Also known as HEPES; helps maintain pH and promotes enzymatic exfoliation.

🧪 SALICYLIC ACID / 水杨酸

Purpose: Exfoliant, Anti-acne

Concerns: Potential irritation, photosensitivity

Notes: A Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) that cleanses pores and exfoliates.

🧪 SARCOSINE / 肌氨酸

Purpose: Skin Conditioning, Oil Control

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used to reduce shine and oiliness in the skin.

🧪 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE / 生育酚乙酸酯

Purpose: Antioxidant

Concerns: None

Notes: A stable form of Vitamin E that protects against free radicals.

🧪 PSEUDOALTEROMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT / 假交替单胞菌发酵产物提取物

Purpose: Humectant, Soothing

Concerns: None

Notes: A marine active that protects skin from dryness and redness.

🧪 MENTHOXYPROPANEDIOL / 薄荷氧基丙二醇

Purpose: Cooling Agent, Soothing

Concerns: Possible irritation for sensitive skin

Notes: A synthetic derivative of menthol providing a cooling sensation without the strong odor.

📁 Preservatives & Stabilizers / 防腐剂与稳定剂

🧪 PHENOXYETHANOL / 苯氧乙醇

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: Irritation in high concentrations

Notes: One of the most common preservatives used in cosmetics.

🧪 CHLORPHENESIN / 氯苯甘醚

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: Sensitization (rare)

Notes: Prevents bacterial growth.

🧪 SODIUM HYDROXIDE / 氢氧化钠

Purpose: pH Adjuster

Concerns: Irritant in raw form (safe in product)

Notes: Used in tiny amounts to ensure the product pH is compatible with skin.

🧪 TETRASODIUM EDTA / 乙二胺四乙酸四钠

Purpose: Chelating Agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Binds to metal ions to prevent cosmetic deterioration.