百雀羚水润保湿霜(营养滋润)

A robust moisturizer combining Mineral Oil and Niacinamide to hydrate and brighten, though the inclusion of Fragrance may limit its use for sensitive skin.

Performance Rating: 4.3

This formula presents a robust blend of occlusives, humectants, and actives. The base of Mineral Oil, Dimethicone, and Squalane ensures excellent moisture retention and barrier protection. Notably, it features the synergistic combination of Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine, which is proven to help with skin brightening and texture. The addition of Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs) like Urea, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, and Serine mimics the skin’s natural hydration mechanism. Meadowfoam Seed Oil and Olive Leaf Extract add antioxidant and emollient benefits.

Safety Rating: 3.8

The primary safety concern is the inclusion of synthetic Fragrance, which is a common allergen and irritant for sensitive skin types. While Mineral Oil is non-comedogenic and safe (pharmaceutical grade), it is sometimes avoided by consumers looking for ‘natural’ alternatives. The formula contains PEG compounds (PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 80), which are safe for use on intact skin but are occasionally scrutinized. The preservative system (Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone) is modern and generally well-tolerated.

Final Rating: 4.1

Overall, this is a high-performance moisturizer particularly well-suited for dry or dehydrated skin due to the heavy-hitting mix of NMFs and lipids. The inclusion of Niacinamide elevates it from a basic moisturizer to a treatment product that addresses tone and barrier health. However, users with sensitive or reactive skin should patch test due to the presence of Fragrance and Exfoliating Acids (Lactic Acid, though likely in low concentrations for hydration). It is an effective, scientifically sound formulation.

Verdict

This facial moisturizer presents a formula that balances heavy-duty hydration with active ingredients aimed at brightening and barrier support. At its core, the product utilizes a reliable base of Mineral Oil, Glycerin, and Dimethicone. This triad forms a semi-permeable seal over the skin, making it highly effective at preventing moisture loss (transepidermal water loss) and softening rough textures. Mineral Oil is particularly notable here as a gold-standard occlusive, ideal for protecting skin in harsh, dry climates, though it gives the product a richer weight. To enhance the moisturizing capabilities, the formulation includes Squalane and Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, both of which provide excellent emollience without feeling overly greasy. Beyond mere hydration, the inclusion of Niacinamide adds significant value. This multifunctional ingredient works to strengthen the skin barrier, soothe inflammation, and improve skin tone. It is chemically paired with Acetyl Glucosamine, an amino sugar that has been shown to work synergistically with Niacinamide to reduce hyperpigmentation and stimulate hyaluronic acid production. The ingredient list further impresses with a complex mimicking the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF), containing Urea, Serine, Lactic Acid, and Sodium Lactate. These humectants bind water deep within the skin layers, promoting long-term hydration. However, the product is not suitable for everyone. The presence of added Fragrance is a distinct drawback for those with reactive or sensitive skin, as it introduces a risk of irritation or contact dermatitis that contradicts the soothing properties of Allantoin and Olive Leaf Extract. Additionally, the combination of Mineral Oil and rich emulsifiers like Glyceryl Stearate may prove too heavy or occlusive for those with Oily or congestion-prone skin, potentially leading to breakouts. In conclusion, this is a well-engineered moisturizer for Dry Skin types looking to tackle dullness and dehydration, provided the user does not have a sensitivity to scent.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvent / 溶剂

🧪 Water / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: The base of the formulation.

📁 Humectants & Moisturizers / 保湿剂与吸湿剂

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A classic moisturizer that draws water into the skin.

🧪 Sorbitol / 山梨(糖)醇

Purpose: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: A sugar alcohol that helps skin retain moisture.

🧪 Sodium Hyaluronate / 透明质酸钠

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: The salt form of Hyaluronic Acid; holds massive amounts of water.

🧪 Butylene Glycol / 丁二醇

Purpose: Humectant, Solvent

Concerns: Very low risk

Notes: Helps ingredients penetrate the skin and improves texture.

🧪 Urea / 尿素

Purpose: Humectant, Exfoliant

Concerns: Can cause irritation on broken skin

Notes: Part of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).

🧪 Sodium Lactate / 乳酸钠

Purpose: Humectant, Buffering Agent

Concerns: Sun sensitivity (if pH is low)

Notes: Salt of lactic acid, part of NMF.

🧪 Serine / 丝氨酸

Purpose: Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: An amino acid that helps bind water.

🧪 Fructose / 果糖

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Fruit sugar with water-binding properties.

🧪 Acetyl Glucosamine / 乙酰壳糖胺

Purpose: Skin Brightening, Hydration

Concerns: None

Notes: Precursor to hyaluronic acid; works well with Niacinamide.

🧪 1,2-Pentanediol / 1,2-戊二醇

Purpose: Humectant, Preservative Booster

Concerns: Low risk of irritation

Notes: Also known as Pentylene Glycol.

🧪 Caprylyl Glycol / 辛甘醇

Purpose: Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used to boost the efficacy of preservatives.

🧪 1,2-Hexanediol / 1,2-己二醇

Purpose: Humectant, Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: Provides a soft feel to the formulation.

📁 Emollients & Occlusives / 柔润剂与封闭剂

🧪 Mineral Oil / 矿油

Purpose: Occlusive, Emollient

Concerns: Comedogenic for some oily skin types

Notes: Excellent at preventing water loss (TEWL); highly refined cosmetic grade is safe.

🧪 Dimethicone / 聚二甲基硅氧烷

Purpose: Emollient, Texture Enhancer

Concerns: None

Notes: A silicone that gives a silky, slip feel and creates a protective barrier.

🧪 Isohexadecane / 异十六烷

Purpose: Emollient, Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: Provides a non-greasy, light finish.

🧪 Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil / 白池花籽油

Purpose: Emollient, Antioxidant

Concerns: None

Notes: Very stable plant oil that feels non-greasy.

🧪 Squalane / 角鲨烷

Purpose: Emollient, Skin Identical Ingredient

Concerns: None

Notes: Highly compatible with skin oils; usually derived from olives or sugar cane.

📁 Emulsifiers & Texture Enhancers / 乳化剂与质地调节剂

🧪 Glyceryl Stearate / 甘油硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps mix oil and water.

🧪 Cetearyl Alcohol / 鲸蜡硬脂醇

Purpose: Emollient, Emulsifier, Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: A fatty alcohol, non-drying and good for texture.

🧪 Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer / 丙烯酸钠/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物

Purpose: Thickener, Stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Creates a gel-cream texture.

🧪 Ceteareth-25 / 鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-25

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps stabilize emulsions.

🧪 PEG-100 Stearate / PEG-100 硬脂酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: PEG compounds have slight contamination risks (minimal in reputable brands)

Notes: Often paired with Glyceryl Stearate.

🧪 Polysorbate 80 / 聚山梨醇酯-80

Purpose: Emulsifier, Solubilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Helps disperse ingredients.

🧪 Xanthan Gum / 黄原胶

Purpose: Thickener, Stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Natural sugar-derived thickener.

🧪 Carbomer / 卡波姆

Purpose: Thickener, Gel forming agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Create the viscosity of the product.

🧪 Sorbitan Oleate / 山梨坦油酸酯

Purpose: Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.

📁 Active Ingredients / 活性成分

🧪 Niacinamide / 烟酰胺

Purpose: Brightening, Anti-aging, Anti-acne

Concerns: May cause flushing in high concentrations

Notes: Vitamin B3; strengthens skin barrier.

🧪 Tocopheryl Acetate / 生育酚乙酸酯

Purpose: Antioxidant

Concerns: None

Notes: A stable form of Vitamin E.

🧪 Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract / 油橄榄叶提取物

Purpose: Antioxidant, Soothing

Concerns: None

Notes: Contains oleuropein.

🧪 Lactic Acid / 乳酸

Purpose: Exfoliant (AHA), pH Adjuster

Concerns: Sun sensitivity, Irritation

Notes: A gentle Alpha Hydroxy Acid.

🧪 Hydrolyzed Pearl / 水解珍珠

Purpose: Skin Conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: Often claimed to brighten skin, contains minerals/amino acids.

🧪 Allantoin / 尿囊素

Purpose: Soothing, Skin Protectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Great for sensitive skin; reduces irritation.

📁 Preservatives & Stabilizers / 防腐剂与稳定剂

🧪 Phenoxyethanol / 苯氧乙醇

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: Safe in concentrations under 1%

Notes: One of the most common preservatives in skincare.

🧪 Hydroxyacetophenone / 对羟基苯乙酮

Purpose: Antioxidant, Preservative Booster

Concerns: None

Notes: Synthetically produced skin-identical ingredient.

🧪 Caprylhydroxamic Acid / 辛酰羟肟酸

Purpose: Chelator, Preservative

Concerns: None

Notes: An amino acid derivative from coconut oil.

🧪 Disodium EDTA / EDTA 二钠

Purpose: Chelator

Concerns: None

Notes: Binds metal ions to prevent spoilage.

🧪 Sodium Chloride / 氯化钠

Purpose: Thickener, Binding Agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Common table salt.

📁 Fragrance / 香精

🧪 Fragrance / 香精

Purpose: Scent

Concerns: Common allergen/Sensitizer

Notes: Can be irritating to sensitive skin.