Goodfellow & Co Facial Lotion

A nourishing yet matte-finish moisturizer blending Shea Butter and Squalene for hydration with Niacinamide for barrier support.

Performance Rating: 4.2

This formula offers a robust blend of humectants (Vegetable Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid) and emollients (Shea Butter, Sunflower Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil) which ensures deep hydration and moisture retention. The inclusion of Niacinamide is a significant performance booster for barrier repair, brightening, and oil regulation. Additionally, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer is included to improve texture, likely providing a matte or soft-focus finish that reduces greasiness.

Safety Rating: 3.8

The majority of ingredients are well-tolerated; however, the presence of Fragrance significantly lowers the safety score for a facial product, as it is a leading cause of contact dermatitis and irritation in sensitive skin. Additionally, the formula uses Squalene rather than the more stable Squalane; Squalene can be comedogenic for some acne-prone skin types and oxidizes more easily.

Final Rating: 4.0

This is a well-formulated moisturizer that balances rich hydration with sophisticated texture enhancers. It is packed with beneficial actives like Niacinamide, Allantoin, and Aloe to soothe and repair the skin. While it performs well as a hydrator, the unnecessary addition of Fragrance makes it less than ideal for reactive or sensitive skin types.

Verdict

This facial moisturizer offers a sophisticated formulation that attempts to balance deep hydration with a cosmetically elegant, non-greasy finish. The base of the product consists of Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, and Vegetable Glycerin, a reliable trio that ensures the skin receives immediate moisture without feeling heavy. The inclusion of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, a lightweight emollient derived from coconut oil, helps the product absorb quickly, avoiding the sticky residue often associated with intensive moisturizers. To provide substantial nourishment, the formula incorporates Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter and Squalene. Shea butter is a gold standard for softening dry skin and sealing in moisture, while Squalene is a skin-identical ingredient that helps replenish natural lipids. These are supported by Sunflower Oil and Apricot Kernel Oil, which are rich in Vitamin E and fatty acids, offering antioxidant protection and reinforcing the skin barrier. A major highlight of this ingredient list is Niacinamide. This multi-functional active is excellent for strengthening the skin barrier, regulating oil production, and brightening the complexion. It works in tandem with Allantoin and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder to soothe potential irritation and reduce redness. Furthermore, the presence of Hyaluronic Acid ensures that hydration is drawn into the upper layers of the skin, keeping it plump and elastic. Despite the richness of the oils and butters, the product is likely to have a satin or matte finish due to the inclusion of Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract. These ingredients act as texturizers and absorbents, helping to control excess shine. However, the inclusion of Fragrance is a point of consideration; while it makes the application pleasant, it can be a sensitizing agent for reactive skin types. In summary, this is a well-engineered moisturizer for those who need the nourishment of oils but prefer the feel of a matte, lightweight cream.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Solvents / 溶剂

🧪 Water / 水

Purpose: Solvent base for the product.

Concerns: None

Notes: The primary component of most lotions.

📁 Active Ingredients / 活性成分

🧪 Niacinamide / 烟酰胺

Purpose: Brightening, barrier repair, oil regulation.

Concerns: May cause flushing in rare cases or at high concentrations.

Notes: Vitamin B3, a versatile skincare superstar.

🧪 Allantoin / 尿囊素

Purpose: Soothing, skin conditioning.

Concerns: None

Notes: Extracted from comfrey plant or synthetic; excellent for irritated skin.

🧪 Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract / 稻提取物

Purpose: Skin conditioning, soothing, antioxidant.

Concerns: None

Notes: Traditional ingredient for softening skin.

🧪 Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder / 库拉索芦荟叶汁粉

Purpose: Soothing, hydrating.

Concerns: None

Notes: Concentrated form of aloe vera.

📁 Moisturizers (Humectants) / 保湿剂(吸湿)

🧪 Vegetable Glycerin / 植物甘油

Purpose: Humectant that draws moisture into the skin.

Concerns: None

Notes: A standard, safe moisturizing ingredient.

🧪 Hyaluronic Acid / 透明质酸

Purpose: Potent humectant, hydration.

Concerns: None

Notes: Can hold up to 1000x its weight in water.

📁 Emollients & Oils / 油脂与润肤剂

🧪 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride / 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯

Purpose: Emollient, texture enhancer.

Concerns: None

Notes: Derived from coconut oil and glycerin; light and stable.

🧪 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter / 牛油果树果脂

Purpose: Deep moisturizing emollient.

Concerns: Can be heavy for very oily skin.

Notes: Rich in fatty acids and vitamins.

🧪 Squalene / 角鲨烯

Purpose: Natural lipid, emollient.

Concerns: Less stable than Squalane; prone to oxidation.

Notes: Naturally found in human sebum; sharks or plant-derived (olives).

🧪 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil / 向日葵籽油

Purpose: Emollient, barrier repair.

Concerns: None

Notes: High in linoleic acid, beneficial for barrier function.

🧪 Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil / 杏核油

Purpose: Emollient, softening.

Concerns: None

Notes: Lightweight oil rich in Vitamin E.

🧪 Dicaprylyl Carbonate / 碳酸二辛酯

Purpose: Fast-spreading emollient.

Concerns: None

Notes: Provides a ‘velvety’ dry-touch feel.

📁 Texture Enhancers & Thickeners / 质地改良与增稠剂

🧪 Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate / 羟丙基淀粉磷酸酯钠

Purpose: Thickener, absorbent.

Concerns: None

Notes: Modified starch often used for a matte finish.

🧪 Polyquaternium-37 / 聚季铵盐-37

Purpose: Thickener, stabilizer, conditioning agent.

Concerns: Synthetic polymer.

Notes: Helps stabilize emulsions and provides a soft feel.

🧪 Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer / 甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物

Purpose: Texture enhancer, absorbent.

Concerns: Microplastic concerns (synthetic polymer beads).

Notes: Used to create a matte, powdery finish on the skin.

📁 Emulsifiers & Surfactants / 乳化剂与表面活性剂

🧪 Polysorbate-20 / 聚山梨醇酯-20

Purpose: Emulsifier, solubilizer.

Concerns: Ethoxylated ingredient (potential contamination trace risks).

Notes: Helps mix oil and water.

🧪 Glyceryl Laurate / 月桂酸甘油酯

Purpose: Emulsifier, skin-conditioning, antimicrobial.

Concerns: None

Notes: Also known as Monolaurin.

🧪 Lauryl Glucoside / 月桂基葡糖苷

Purpose: Surfactant, emulsifier.

Concerns: None

Notes: Gentle, plant-derived sugar surfactant.

📁 Preservatives & Stabilizers / 防腐剂与稳定剂

🧪 Caprylyl Glycol / 辛甘醇

Purpose: Humectant, preservative booster.

Concerns: None

Notes: Multifunctional ingredient that aids preservation.

🧪 Glyceryl Undecylenate / 十一碳烯酸甘油酯

Purpose: Emollient, preservative booster.

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used in natural preservation systems.

📁 Fragrance / 香精

🧪 Fragrance / 香精

Purpose: Scent.

Concerns: Common sensitizer; can cause irritation.

Notes: Proprietary blend of aromatic compounds.