Crème de la Mer

A legendary, ultra-rich moisturizer centered on fermented Algae Extract and heavy occlusives like Mineral Oil and Petrolatum to deeply hydrate and seal the skin barrier.

Performance Rating: 4.4

This formula is a powerhouse for dry, dehydrated, or compromised skin. It relies on a heavy-duty occlusive base of Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Microcrystalline Wax, and Lanolin Alcohol, which creates an exceptional seal to prevent Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). The signature Algae Extract, combined with a fermented mineral blend (Sodium, Copper, Calcium, Magnesium, and Zinc Gluconates), offers potent skin-conditioning and soothing properties. Glycerin and Panthenol provide necessary hydration. However, the texture is likely very heavy and may be too rich or comedogenic for oily and acne-prone skin.

Safety Rating: 3.2

While the ingredients are regulatory compliant, the formula poses a moderate risk of irritation for sensitive skin types. It contains Fragrance (Parfum) and essential oils like Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil and Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract, which can be sensitizing. Additionally, known fragrance allergens such as Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, and Citronellol are present. Lanolin Alcohol is a common allergen for those sensitive to wool products, and Alcohol Denat. can be drying or irritating, although it serves as a solvent here.

Final Rating: 3.8

This is a classic, luxury-tier formulation designed for intense moisturization and barrier repair. It excels in performance for its target demographic: those with dry, mature, or damaged skin requiring heavy occlusion. However, it is not universally suitable; the inclusion of fragrance, essential oils, and potential pore-clogging ingredients (Lanolin, Algae Extract) makes it a risky choice for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin.

Verdict

This facial moisturizer is indisputably one of the most famous and debated formulations in the skincare world. At its core, the product relies on a proprietary fermentation of Algae Extract, often referred to as a “broth,” which is designed to soothe and renew the skin’s appearance. This bioactive component is suspended in a rich, old-school base of Mineral Oil and Petrolatum. While these ingredients are often criticized in modern “clean” beauty circles for being inexpensive byproducts, they are clinically superior at functioning as occlusives. They create a non-breathable seal over the epidermis that halts water loss immediately, making this formula a savior for extremely parched or flaky skin.

The texture is distinctively heavy and wax-like, primarily due to Microcrystalline Wax and Lanolin Alcohol. Unlike lightweight gels or lotions, this crème requires a specific ritual: it must be warmed between the fingers until translucent before pressing it into the skin. This application method allows the Glycerin and nutritive oils—such as Sesame Seed Oil and Sweet Almond Seed Meal—to penetrate effectively while the waxes set to form a protective barrier. The inclusion of vitamins like Niacin, Beta-Carotene, and Tocopheryl Succinate (Vitamin E) further supports the skin’s natural repair processes.

However, the ingredient list reveals potential triggers that sensitive skin types must consider. The formula is heavily fragranced, not just with added Parfum, but with potent botanical oils like Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil and Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract. These ingredients provide the product’s signature crisp, herbal scent, but they are also known sensitizers that can cause contact dermatitis or redness in reactive skin. Additionally, the presence of Alcohol Denat., Limonene, Linalool, and Geraniol amplifies the risk of irritation for those with a compromised moisture barrier or rosacea.

Ultimately, this moisturizer is a polarizing powerhouse. It is exceptionally well-suited for mature or severely dry skin that requires a heavy-duty shield against environmental stress. The combination of Algae Extract and robust occlusives delivers profound softening and hydration that lighter creams simply cannot match. Conversely, those with oily, acne-prone, or sensitive skin should likely steer clear. The heavy concentrations of Petrolatum, waxes, and essential oils create a perfect storm for potential pore-clogging and irritation in congestion-prone complexions.

Who Is This Product For?

Who Should Avoid This Product?

Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Key Active Ingredients / 主要活性成分

🧪 Algae Extract / 藻提取物

Purpose: Skin conditioning, hydration, soothing.

Concerns: None generally, though source quality matters.

Notes: The core ingredient of the formula, often referred to as ‘Miracle Broth’ in this specific formulation context.

🧪 Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract / 酸橙果皮提取物

Purpose: Antioxidant, skin conditioning.

Concerns: Citrus extracts can be photosensitizing, though usually minimal in this context.

Notes: Part of the fermentation process.

🧪 Sesame/Alfalfa/Sunflower/Almond Blend / 芝麻/紫苜蓿/向日葵/甜杏仁混合物

Purpose: Nourishing, emollient.

Concerns: Potential nut/seed allergies.

Notes: Includes Sesamum Indicum Oil/Powder, Medicago Sativa Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal.

🧪 Mineral Gluconates (Sodium, Copper, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc) / 矿物葡萄糖酸盐 (钠, 铜, 钙, 镁, 锌)

Purpose: Skin conditioning, supporting skin barrier function.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Fermented minerals used to support skin health.

📁 Moisturizers & Emollients / 保湿剂与柔润剂

🧪 Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) / 矿物油

Purpose: Occlusive agent, locks in moisture.

Concerns: Petroleum-derived; some users dislike the heavy feel or potential occlusivity for acne-prone skin.

Notes: Highly refined and effective at preventing transepidermal water loss.

🧪 Petrolatum / 矿脂 (凡士林)

Purpose: Strong occlusive, skin protectant.

Concerns: Greasy texture, petroleum-derived.

Notes: One of the most effective ingredients for sealing in moisture.

🧪 Glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant (draws moisture to the skin).

Concerns: None.

Notes: A standard, effective hydrating ingredient.

🧪 Lanolin Alcohol / 羊毛脂醇

Purpose: Emollient, emulsifier.

Concerns: Derived from sheep’s wool; potential allergen for those sensitive to lanolin.

Notes: Provides a rich, creamy texture.

🧪 Isohexadecane / 异十六烷

Purpose: Emollient, solvent, texture enhancer.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Provides a dry, silky finish.

🧪 Decyl Oleate / 油酸癸酯

Purpose: Emollient.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Lubricates the skin surface.

🧪 Octyldodecanol / 辛基十二醇

Purpose: Emollient, solvent.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Helps stabilize the formula.

📁 Vitamins & Antioxidants / 维生素与抗氧化剂

🧪 Tocopheryl Succinate / 生育酚琥珀酸酯

Purpose: Antioxidant (Vitamin E derivative).

Concerns: None.

Notes: Protects against free radical damage.

🧪 Niacin / 烟酸

Purpose: Skin conditioning (Vitamin B3 form).

Concerns: Can cause flushing in high concentrations (though unlikely here).

Notes: Helps improve skin barrier.

🧪 Panthenol / 泛醇

Purpose: Soothing, humectant (Pro-Vitamin B5).

Concerns: None.

Notes: Great for soothing irritated skin.

🧪 Beta-Carotene / β-胡萝卜素

Purpose: Antioxidant, pigment.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Precursor to Vitamin A.

🧪 Cyanocobalamin / 氰钴胺

Purpose: Skin conditioning (Vitamin B12).

Concerns: None.

Notes: Can give a pinkish tint to products.

📁 Texture Enhancers, Thickeners & Solvents / 质地调节剂、增稠剂与溶剂

🧪 Microcrystalline Wax / Paraffin / 微晶蜡 / 石蜡

Purpose: Viscosity controlling, binding.

Concerns: Petrochemical derived.

Notes: Adds structure to the cream.

🧪 Magnesium Sulfate / 硫酸镁

Purpose: Bulking agent, emulsion stabilizer.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Often known as Epsom salts.

🧪 Aluminum Distearate / 二硬脂酸铝

Purpose: Viscosity controlling, anticaking.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Thickener.

🧪 Magnesium Stearate / 硬脂酸镁

Purpose: Bulking agent, anticaking.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Improves texture.

🧪 Water/ 水

Purpose: Solvent.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Base for the emulsion.

🧪 Citric Acid / 柠檬酸

Purpose: pH adjuster.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Ensures product is skin-compatible pH.

📁 Fragrance & Preservatives / 香精与防腐剂

🧪 Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil / 蓝桉叶油

Purpose: Fragrance, skin conditioning.

Concerns: Essential oil that can be sensitizing to some skin types.

Notes: Provides a distinct scent and cooling sensation.

🧪 Fragrance (Parfum) / 香精

Purpose: Scent.

Concerns: Common cause of skin sensitivity and irritation.

Notes: Synthetic or natural fragrance blend.

🧪 Fragrance Allergens (Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate) / 香精过敏原 (柠檬烯, 香叶醇, 芳樟醇等)

Purpose: Scent components.

Concerns: EU-listed allergens; potential irritants for sensitive skin.

Notes: Naturally occurring components of essential oils or synthetic fragrance.

🧪 Alcohol Denat. / 变性乙醇

Purpose: Solvent, astringent, antimicrobial.

Concerns: Can be drying or irritating to the moisture barrier in high concentrations.

Notes: Likely used to solubilize ingredients or lighten texture.

🧪 Sodium Benzoate / 苯甲酸钠

Purpose: Preservative.

Concerns: None.

Notes: Prevents microbial growth.