An iconic, fragrance-free cleansing balm designed to seamlessly melt away stubborn makeup, sunscreen, and daily impurities while maintaining the skin’s natural moisture barrier.
The formula features high-performing emollients and solvents like Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Safflower Seed Oil, and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride which are highly effective at dissolving stubborn makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum. To ensure it rinses off clean without leaving a greasy residue, the formula incorporates highly efficient emulsifiers such as Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate and Peg-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate. The addition of Polyethylene gives this cleansing balm its smooth, solid-to-oil texture, while Tocopherol (Vitamin E) offers antioxidant benefits. This combination delivers outstanding cleansing efficiency while maintaining skin hydration, justifying its high performance score.
The safety profile is strong, largely due to the absence of fragrance, essential oils, and harsh sulfates, making it suitable for sensitive skin. It uses Phenoxyethanol as a safe, widely-accepted preservative. However, the rating is slightly adjusted because Ethylhexyl Palmitate has a relatively high comedogenic potential, which may clog pores for acne-prone skin types. Additionally, the inclusion of Polyethylene (a synthetic polymer/microplastic) and PEG-based emulsifying agents (Peg-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate) may raise environmental or minor skin-sensitization questions for some users, though they are generally deemed safe for cosmetic use in rinse-off products.
With a final score of 9.1/10, this cleansing balm is an industry-standard, highly reliable first cleanser. It strikes a near-perfect balance between high-performance makeup removal and a skin-friendly, non-irritating formula. While acne-prone users should rinse thoroughly to mitigate the comedogenic risk of Ethylhexyl Palmitate, and eco-conscious consumers might note the use of Polyethylene, its overall efficacy, gentle surfactant system, and fragrance-free formulation make it an exceptional choice for a double-cleansing routine.
This classic, minimalist formulation is the backbone of one of the beauty industry’s most beloved first-step oil cleansers. Designed as a balm-to-oil treatment, it features a simple yet highly effective list of ingredients that transition seamlessly from a solid balm to a silky oil upon contact with skin warmth. It excels at efficiently dissolving heavy makeup, stubborn impurities, and waterproof sunscreens without stripping the skin’s moisture barrier, ensuring a soft, hydrated finish. At the core of this formula is Ethylhexyl Palmitate, a lightweight, medium-spreading ester that acts as a gentle yet powerful solvent to break down oil-soluble cosmetics. It works in synergy with Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, an emollient derived from coconut oil and glycerin that provides a smooth, non-greasy glide during massage. To further nourish the skin, the formula includes Safflower Seed Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius), which is naturally rich in linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that helps condition and reinforce the skin barrier. A major strength of this cleansing balm lies in its exceptional rinsability. It utilizes high-performing emulsifying agents like Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate and Peg-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate. These ingredients allow the rich oils in the formula to interact with water, transforming into a milky emulsion that rinses off cleanly without leaving a heavy or greasy film behind. The structure of the balm is maintained by Polyethylene, a polymer that gives the product its stable, scoopable, and travel-friendly solid texture. Additionally, the complete omission of synthetic fragrances, volatile alcohols, and essential oils makes it an exceptionally safe choice for individuals with sensitive skin, rosacea, or hyper-reactive eyes. It offers highly reliable makeup removal with minimal risk of stinging, irritation, or contact dermatitis. However, there are a few drawbacks to consider. Ethylhexyl Palmitate carries a moderate-to-high comedogenic rating, meaning it has the potential to clog pores. Although the product is designed to be fully washed off, those with congested or highly acne-prone skin must follow up with a water-based second cleanser to ensure no oily residue remains. Furthermore, because the formula relies on Polyethylene—a synthetic polymer—environmentally conscious users may prefer to seek out newer formulations that utilize biodegradable waxes instead. Overall, it remains a gold standard in double cleansing, celebrated for its efficiency, simplicity, and skin-softening benefits.
🧪 Ethylhexyl Palmitate / 棕榈酸乙基己酯
Purpose: Acts as a skin-conditioning emollient and solvent that helps dissolve makeup and sebum.
Concerns: Has a high comedogenic rating (typically 4 out of 5), which may clog pores and trigger breakouts in acne-prone skin.
Notes: Provides a smooth, luxurious slip during application but must be thoroughly washed off.
🧪 Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil / 红花（CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS）籽油
Purpose: A plant-derived emollient rich in linoleic acid that nourishes and softens the skin.
Concerns: Very low risk of irritation; generally safe for all skin types.
Notes: Helps maintain the skin barrier and gently breaks down stubborn, oil-soluble impurities.
🧪 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride / 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯
Purpose: A lightweight emollient derived from coconut oil and glycerin used to condition the skin.
Concerns: Considered highly safe and non-irritating with very low comedogenicity.
Notes: Provides excellent spreadability and helps prevent the cleanser from leaving a greasy residue after rinsing.
🧪 Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate / 山梨醇聚醚-30 四油酸酯
Purpose: A highly effective self-emulsifying surfactant that allows oils to mix with water.
Concerns: Generally safe and gentle with a very low risk of skin irritation.
Notes: Essential for the ‘balm-to-milk’ transformation, enabling the balm to rinse off cleanly without leaving a heavy film.
🧪 Peg-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate / PEG-5 甘油三异硬脂酸酯
Purpose: A mild co-emulsifier and surfactant that assists in lifting makeup and impurities from the skin.
Concerns: As a PEG derivative, there is a theoretical concern for trace impurities like 1,4-dioxane, but cosmetic-grade sources are highly purified and safe.
Notes: Works synergistically with other emulsifiers to ensure effortless rinsing.
🧪 Polyethylene / 聚乙烯
Purpose: Used as a binder and viscosity-controlling polymer to give the balm its solid, scoopable texture.
Concerns: It is a synthetic polymer (microplastic) which poses environmental bioaccumulation concerns, though it is chemically inert and completely safe for skin application.
Notes: Melts smoothly upon contact with body heat, transforming from a solid balm into a silky oil.
🧪 Water/ 水
Purpose: A basic solvent used as a carrier.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Present in a very small amount in this anhydrous-leaning balm formula.
🧪 Tocopherol / 生育酚
Purpose: An antioxidant (Vitamin E) that protects botanical oils from oxidation and rancidity.
Concerns: Highly safe, though extremely sensitive individuals might experience mild contact dermatitis in rare cases.
Notes: Maintains product stability and provides secondary skin barrier protection.
🧪 Phenoxyethanol / 苯氧乙醇
Purpose: A broad-spectrum preservative used to prevent microbial growth and extend shelf life.
Concerns: Can cause mild irritation in rare cases for extremely sensitive skin, but is highly safe within the standard 1% cosmetic limit.
Notes: A widely accepted, safe alternative to parabens in modern skincare.