This is a nourishing, oil-based cleansing balm designed to effortlessly melt away stubborn makeup, sunscreen, and impurities while supporting the skin’s natural barrier.
This cleanser boasts a highly effective oil- or balm-based formulation that relies on emollients like cetyl ethylhexanoate and caprylic/capric triglyceride to thoroughly dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum. Emulsifiers such as peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate and peg-10 isostearate allow the product to rinse off effortlessly with water, avoiding greasy residue. Furthermore, it is enriched with barrier-restoring lipids like ceramides (3, 6 ii, 1), phytosphingosine, and cholesterol, alongside hydrating hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate and anti-aging peptides. While these active ingredients have short contact time in a wash-off product, they still help prevent stripping, earning this formula a high 8.9/10 for performance.
The safety rating of 7.5/10 reflects a generally skin-friendly profile, but with a few notable sensitizers. On the positive side, it avoids harsh sulfates and drying alcohols, utilizing gentle emollients and skin-identical lipids. However, the inclusion of fragrance (parfum) along with known fragrance allergens geraniol and linalool increases the risk of contact dermatitis and irritation, particularly for those with sensitive skin or compromised barriers. Additionally, the presence of PEG derivatives (peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate, peg-10 isostearate, and polysorbate 20) introduces minor contamination concerns, though they are safe in standard cosmetic usage.
An overall rating of 8.2/10 marks this cleanser as an excellent option that successfully bridges high efficacy with solid safety. It functions as a luxurious, barrier-supportive cleanser that melts away impurities without disrupting the skin’s moisture balance, thanks to the nourishing inclusion of sunflower seed oil, ceramides, and peptides. The primary drawback holding it back from a higher score is the presence of fragrance and fragrance allergens, which limits its compatibility with highly reactive or sensitive skin. For normal to dry skin types, it remains an outstanding, non-drying cleanser.
This formulation is an exceptional oil-based first cleanser designed to effortlessly dissolve stubborn, oil-soluble impurities like waterproof makeup, sebum, and sunscreen. The product utilizes emollients such as cetyl ethylhexanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and sunflower seed oil to break down cosmetic pigments and daily grime on the skin’s surface. Crucially, the inclusion of emulsifiers like PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and PEG-10 isostearate allows the formula to transform into a milky emulsion upon contact with water, ensuring that everything rinses away cleanly without leaving behind a heavy or greasy film. What sets this cleanser apart is its remarkable focus on barrier support. It is packed with a skin-identical lipid blend consisting of ceramides (1, 3, and 6 II), cholesterol, and phytosphingosine. This combination mimics the natural lipid structure of the stratum corneum, helping to replenish the skin barrier and prevent transepidermal water loss. Additionally, humectants like glycerin, butylene glycol, and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate ensure the skin remains plump, soft, and hydrated rather than tight and stripped after washing. It also includes palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7; while these anti-aging peptides are highly beneficial, their impact is somewhat limited in a rinse-off product due to minimal contact time. Despite its stellar hydrating profile, there are a few considerations to keep in mind. The formula contains fragrance (parfum) as well as known fragrance allergens like linalool and geraniol. Because cleansing balms are typically massaged heavily around the delicate eye area to break down mascara and eyeliner, these aromatic compounds can potentially trigger burning, watering, or irritation in sensitive individuals. Additionally, the presence of oils and esters means it may not be suitable for those dealing with fungal acne. In summary, this is a beautifully textured, highly effective cleansing balm that performs like a high-end product, making it a fantastic choice for double-cleansing enthusiasts, provided their skin is not sensitive to fragrance.
🧪 cetyl ethylhexanoate / 鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯
Purpose: Softens skin and helps dissolve makeup and sebum.
Concerns: Low concern, though can be mildly comedogenic for highly acne-prone skin.
Notes: A very common ester used in cleansing oils and balms.
🧪 caprylic/capric triglyceride / 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯
Purpose: Skin conditioning agent and emollient.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Derived from coconut oil and glycerin, provides a lightweight feel.
🧪 hydrogenated polydecene / 氢化聚癸烯
Purpose: Skin-softening agent and emollient.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Provides a smooth, silky feel without being greasy.
🧪 helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil / 向日葵籽油
Purpose: Natural emollient rich in fatty acids.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Helps replenish the skin barrier and soothe dryness.
🧪 hydrogenated sunflower seed oil / 氢化向日葵籽油
Purpose: Thickener and emollient.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Solidified sunflower oil used to give the formula structure.
🧪 peg-20 glyceryl triisostearate / PEG-20 甘油三异硬脂酸酯
Purpose: Main emulsifier that allows the cleanser to rinse off easily with water.
Concerns: Generally low concern.
Notes: A key ingredient in modern cleansing balms that facilitates clean rinsing.
🧪 peg-10 isostearate / PEG-10 异硬脂酸酯
Purpose: Co-emulsifier and surfactant.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Helps lift oil and dirt from the skin.
🧪 polysorbate 20 / 聚山梨醇酯-20
Purpose: Mild surfactant and emulsifying agent.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Helps to solubilize and blend oil with water.
🧪 sodium lauroyl lactylate / 月桂酰乳酰乳酸钠
Purpose: Mild surfactant and emulsifier.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Often used to disperse and stabilize lipids like ceramides.
🧪 ceramide 3 / 神经酰胺 3
Purpose: Rebuilds and strengthens the natural skin barrier.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Also known as Ceramide NP, ideal for dry or sensitive skin.
🧪 ceramide 6 ii / 神经酰胺 6 II
Purpose: Maintains skin barrier and assists in gentle exfoliation.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Also known as Ceramide AP.
🧪 ceramide 1 / 神经酰胺 1
Purpose: Strengthens skin structure and prevents moisture loss.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Also known as Ceramide EOP.
🧪 cholesterol / 胆甾醇
Purpose: Works synergistically with ceramides to repair the skin barrier.
Concerns: None.
Notes: An essential lipid naturally present in the skin barrier.
🧪 phytosphingosine / 植物鞘氨醇
Purpose: Skin barrier support and anti-inflammatory properties.
Concerns: None.
Notes: A lipid precursor to ceramides.
🧪 glycerin / 甘油
Purpose: Attracts and retains moisture in the skin.
Concerns: None.
Notes: The gold standard hydrating ingredient.
🧪 butylene glycol / 丁二醇
Purpose: Humectant and solvent to improve product texture.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Can occasionally cause mild irritation in highly sensitive skin.
🧪 hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate / 水解透明质酸钠
Purpose: Deeply hydrating humectant.
Concerns: None.
Notes: A low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid that penetrates skin easily.
🧪 water (aqua) / 水
Purpose: Solvent and carrier.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Provides the liquid base for water-soluble ingredients.
🧪 palmitoyl tripeptide-1 / 棕榈酰三肽-1
Purpose: Stimulates collagen synthesis and skin repair.
Concerns: None.
Notes: An anti-aging peptide; efficacy may be limited in a wash-off product.
🧪 palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 / 棕榈酰四肽-7
Purpose: Reduces skin inflammation and supports collagen production.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Often paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 as part of a peptide complex.
🧪 carbomer / 卡波姆
Purpose: Viscosity controlling and gel-forming agent.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Helps stabilize the texture of the product.
🧪 xanthan gum / 黄原胶
Purpose: Natural thickener and emulsion stabilizer.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Derived from sugar fermentation.
🧪 phenoxyethanol / 苯氧乙醇
Purpose: Broad-spectrum preservative.
Concerns: May cause mild irritation in high concentrations or on broken skin.
Notes: A very common and safe preservative used to prevent microbial growth.
🧪 ethylhexylglycerin / 乙基己基甘油
Purpose: Preservative booster and mild humectant.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: Often paired with phenoxyethanol to enhance efficacy.
🧪 caprylyl glycol / 辛甘醇
Purpose: Moisturizer and preservative booster.
Concerns: Low concern.
Notes: An emollient with antimicrobial properties.
🧪 fragrance (parfum) / 香精
Purpose: Provides scent.
Concerns: High potential for causing skin irritation or sensitization.
Notes: Best avoided by those with very sensitive or eczema-prone skin.
🧪 geraniol / 香叶醇
Purpose: Scent component.
Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.
Notes: Naturally present in essential oils, must be listed due to regulations.
🧪 linalool / 芳樟醇
Purpose: Scent component.
Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.
Notes: Can oxidize upon exposure to air and become highly sensitizing.