up&up Deep Cleansing Facial Wash

A refreshing gel cleanser formulated with invigorating citrus extracts, cooling menthol, and encapsulated vitamins to wake up tired skin.

Performance Rating: 3.7

The formula uses Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine, which provide a strong, effective cleanse suitable for removing excess oil and impurities. The inclusion of Menthyl Lactate and Menthol delivers a refreshing, cooling sensation, while Glycerin helps mitigate some dryness. However, the beneficial extracts like Ginseng, Ginger, and Vitamin C are in a rinse-off product, meaning their long-term skincare benefits are limited compared to leave-on treatments.

Safety Rating: 3.5

While generally safe for the general population, this cleanser contains Fragrance and Menthol, both of which are common potential irritants, especially for those with sensitive skin or compromised barriers. Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate can also be quite stripping and drying if used on dry or reactive skin types. The presence of Mica and Titanium Dioxide are primarily for aesthetic appeal and do not contribute to skin health.

Final Rating: 3.6

This is a solid, refreshing facial cleanser that is best suited for oily or combination skin types that enjoy a deep-clean feel. The cooling agents provide a pleasant sensory experience, but users with sensitive skin should exercise caution due to the potential for irritation from the surfactants and fragrance components. It is an effective functional product, though it lacks high-end soothing agents to balance its strong cleansing power.

Verdict

The formulation of this facial cleanser positions it as a revitalizing morning treatment rather than a gentle nighttime makeup remover. At its core, the use of Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate ensures a very thorough cleanse, effectively slicing through excess sebum and overnight sweat. This makes it particularly appealing to those with oily or acne-prone skin who struggle with a greasy feeling upon waking. However, this specific surfactant is known for its high cleansing power, which can inadvertently lead to trans-epidermal water loss if the skin’s natural moisture barrier is already weak. To counter this, the inclusion of Glycerin acts as a vital humectant to draw moisture back into the skin. The sensory experience is clearly the priority here. The inclusion of Menthol and Menthyl Lactate creates a sharp, cooling tingle that can help stimulate blood flow to the skin’s surface, providing an immediate brightening and de-puffing effect. This is complemented by a “burst” of encapsulated nutrients. The visual beads containing Tocopheryl Acetate and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate provide a burst of antioxidants, though it is important to note that because these are rinsed off almost immediately, their long-term anti-aging benefits are secondary to the immediate sensory pleasure. The botanical blend featuring Ginseng, Ginger, and Grapefruit reinforces the “energy” marketing of the product. Ginseng is renowned for its skin-toning properties, while ginger provides a warming sensation that balances the cooling menthol. Despite these benefits, the formula contains Fragrance and several potential irritants for those with compromised skin. The inclusion of Mica and Iron Oxides gives the product a luxurious, shimmering look, but these are strictly cosmetic additions. Moreover, the presence of Acrylates Copolymer and Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 gives the gel its sophisticated texture and helps suspend the active beads, ensuring an even distribution of ingredients with every pump. While the product is effective at removing debris, the alkaline nature of Sodium Hydroxide used for pH adjustment must be carefully balanced to prevent the skin from feeling tight. In summary, this is a high-performance cleanser for those who want to feel “squeaky clean” and wide awake. It is best used as a first step in a morning routine, followed by a hydrating toner and moisturizer to lock in the hydration that the strong surfactants might remove.

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Ingredient Evaluation

📁 Cleansing Agents / 清洁成分

🧪 sodium c14-16 olefin sulfonate / C14-16 烯基磺酸钠

Purpose: Surfactant/Cleansing agent

Concerns: Can be drying or irritating to sensitive skin

Notes: A strong anionic surfactant that provides effective foaming and cleansing.

🧪 cocamidopropyl betaine / 椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱

Purpose: Surfactant/Cleansing agent

Concerns: Potential allergen for some individuals

Notes: A mild amphoteric surfactant that helps reduce irritation from stronger cleansers.

📁 Solvents and Humectants / 溶剂与保湿成分

🧪 water / 水

Purpose: Solvent

Concerns: None

Notes: The base of the formulation.

🧪 glycerin / 甘油

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A skin-identical ingredient that helps maintain hydration.

🧪 propylene glycol / 丙二醇

Purpose: Humectant/Solvent

Concerns: May cause irritation in very high concentrations

Notes: Helps active ingredients penetrate the skin.

🧪 caprylyl glycol / 辛甘醇

Purpose: Skin conditioning/Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: Also acts as a preservative booster.

🧪 hexylene glycol / 己二醇

Purpose: Solvent/Humectant

Concerns: Potential mild irritant

Notes: Helps stabilize the texture.

🧪 mannitol / 甘露糖醇

Purpose: Humectant

Concerns: None

Notes: A sugar alcohol that helps with skin conditioning.

📁 Texture and Stability Agents / 质地与稳定性成分

🧪 acrylates copolymer / 丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物

Purpose: Thickener/Stabilizer

Concerns: None

Notes: Provides viscosity and product stability.

🧪 hydroxypropyl methylcellulose / 羟丙基甲基纤维素

Purpose: Thickener

Concerns: None

Notes: A plant-derived thickener often used in gel formulations.

🧪 microcrystalline cellulose / 微晶纤维素

Purpose: Texture enhancer/Abrasive

Concerns: None

Notes: Can provide a mild mechanical exfoliating effect or texture.

🧪 polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 / 聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6

Purpose: Thickener/Emulsifier

Concerns: None

Notes: Creates a smooth, non-sticky gel texture.

🧪 acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer / 丙烯酸(酯)类/甲基丙烯酸铵共聚物

Purpose: Film former

Concerns: None

Notes: Commonly used to coat pigments or provide a film-like feel.

🧪 sodium hydroxide / 氢氧化钠

Purpose: pH Adjuster

Concerns: Corrosive in pure form, but safe in balanced formulations

Notes: Used to stabilize the pH of the product.

🧪 simethicone / 乙硅油

Purpose: Antifoaming agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Used to prevent excessive bubbling during manufacturing.

📁 Skin Conditioning and Actives / 护肤活性成分与提取物

🧪 menthyl lactate / 薄荷醇乳酸酯

Purpose: Cooling agent

Concerns: May be irritating to sensitive skin

Notes: A milder derivative of menthol providing a refreshing sensation.

🧪 menthol / 薄荷醇

Purpose: Cooling agent/Fragrance

Concerns: Can be irritating to eyes and sensitive skin

Notes: Provides a strong cooling and refreshing effect.

🧪 tocopheryl acetate / 生育酚乙酸酯

Purpose: Antioxidant

Concerns: None

Notes: A stable form of Vitamin E.

🧪 sodium ascorbyl phosphate / 抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠

Purpose: Antioxidant/Skin brightening

Concerns: None

Notes: A stable derivative of Vitamin C.

🧪 cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract / 黄瓜果提取物

Purpose: Skin conditioning/Soothing

Concerns: None

Notes: Provides hydration and calming properties.

🧪 citrus grandis (grapefruit) fruit extract / 葡萄柚果提取物

Purpose: Skin conditioning/Antioxidant

Concerns: Potential photosensitivity if used in high amounts

Notes: Contains vitamin C and citrus compounds.

🧪 panax ginseng root extract / 人参根提取物

Purpose: Skin conditioning

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used for its revitalizing and anti-aging claims.

🧪 zingiber officinale (ginger) root extract / 姜根提取物

Purpose: Skin conditioning/Anti-inflammatory

Concerns: Potential mild irritant

Notes: Known for its soothing and antioxidant properties.

📁 Preservatives and Chelators / 防腐与螯合成分

🧪 phenoxyethanol / 苯氧乙醇

Purpose: Preservative

Concerns: May cause mild irritation at higher levels

Notes: A globally approved preservative.

🧪 disodium edta / 二钠EDTA

Purpose: Chelating agent

Concerns: None

Notes: Prevents minerals in water from affecting product stability.

📁 Aesthetic and Colorants / 气味与着色成分

🧪 fragrance / 香精

Purpose: Scenting

Concerns: Common source of skin sensitization or allergy

Notes: Used to mask base odors and provide a pleasant scent.

🧪 triethyl citrate / 柠檬酸三乙酯

Purpose: Stabilizer/Fragrance carrier

Concerns: None

Notes: Often used in fragrance blends.

🧪 mica / 云母

Purpose: Opacifying agent/Colorant

Concerns: None

Notes: Provides a shimmer or pearlescent look to the product.

🧪 iron oxides / 氧化铁类

Purpose: Colorant

Concerns: None

Notes: Mineral pigments used to provide color.

🧪 titanium dioxide / 二氧化钛

Purpose: Opacifier/Colorant

Concerns: None in wash-off products

Notes: Provides a white pigment and opacity.