This product is a classic, rich cold cream cleanser formulated with mineral oil and beeswax to effortlessly melt away stubborn makeup while deeply moisturizing the skin.
The cleanser acts as a traditional cold cream, utilizing Mineral Oil, Ceresin, and Beeswax to effectively dissolve heavy makeup, excess sebum, and impurities. Emollients like Cetyl Alcohol and fatty acids such as Stearic Acid and Behenic Acid provide a rich, luxurious texture that leaves dry skin feeling deeply moisturized. However, because of its heavy, oil-rich base, it can leave a persistent greasy residue that does not rinse off easily with water, often requiring a washcloth or a second-step cleanser. It also lacks advanced skin-beneficial actives, resulting in a moderate performance rating of 6.8/10.
The safety rating of 5.4/10 reflects several formulation concerns, particularly for sensitive and acne-prone skin types. The inclusion of Triethanolamine as a pH adjuster carries a risk of skin irritation and sensitizing reactions. Additionally, the formula contains a high concentration of potential allergens, including synthetic Fragrance, Benzyl Benzoate, Citronellol, Geraniol, and Terpineol, which can trigger contact dermatitis. The preservative Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate is also a known contact allergen. Furthermore, the occlusive nature of Mineral Oil combined with heavy waxes like Beeswax can be highly comedogenic, leading to clogged pores and breakouts.
Overall, a final rating of 6.0/10 represents a classic, no-frills cleansing formula that is highly effective for makeup removal but carries significant drawbacks. While its moisturizing, occlusive barrier is highly beneficial for very dry skin, the heavy profile makes it unsuitable for oily or acne-prone individuals. The substantial presence of fragrance allergens and potentially irritating compounds like Triethanolamine further limits its appeal, making it a risky choice for sensitive skin. Modern consumers may prefer lighter, cleaner alternatives, but it remains a functional staple for specific dry skin needs.
This formulation is the classic, time-tested recipe for a cold cream cleanser, heavily relying on mineral oil, beeswax, and various fatty acids to dissolve stubborn makeup, sebum, and daily impurities. Unlike modern water-activated foaming cleansers, this product functions primarily through the chemical mechanism of “like dissolves like.” The heavy concentration of high-purity mineral oil works as an exceptionally effective solvent for long-wear makeup, waterproof mascara, and heavy sunscreens, breaking them down without the need for harsh, abrasive scrubbing that can compromise the skin barrier. To hold the rich, luxurious texture together, structured waxes like ceresin and beeswax are blended in, providing a protective, highly occlusive barrier that deeply conditions the skin and locks in moisture during and after the cleansing process. However, the very properties that make this formula a holy grail for very dry skin can make it problematic for other skin types. Because it contains minimal water-soluble surfactants, it does not easily rinse clean with water alone. Instead, it is designed to be wiped away with a tissue, cotton pad, or a warm, damp washcloth. This traditional removal method leaves behind a significant residue of mineral oil, fatty alcohols, and beeswax. While this residue acts as an excellent, comforting shield against trans-epidermal moisture loss for extremely dry and dehydrated skin, it can feel suffocating, heavy, and unpleasantly greasy on oily, combination, or congestion-prone skin types. Furthermore, those with acne-prone skin should approach this product with caution. While pure mineral oil is technically non-comedogenic, its intense occlusive nature, combined with rich fatty acids like stearic acid and cetyl alcohol, can trap sebum, dead skin cells, and acne-causing bacteria underneath its barrier, potentially triggering breakouts. Another notable consideration is the heavy fragrance profile. This formula contains synthetic fragrance along with known volatile aromatic compounds and allergens like citronellol, geraniol, benzyl benzoate, and terpineol. While these components provide a nostalgic, pleasant sensory experience, they pose a high risk of sensitization, irritation, or contact dermatitis for individuals with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea. In summary, this is an iconic, highly effective, and budget-friendly option for heavy makeup removal and deep moisturization, specifically suited for dry, resilient skin types. If you have acne-prone or oily skin but still want to use it, it is highly recommended to follow up with a gentle, water-soluble foaming cleanser—a method known as double cleansing—to ensure all heavy residue is completely removed from your pores.
🧪 WATER (EAU) / 水
Purpose: Solvent and carrier for water-soluble ingredients.
Concerns: None.
Notes: The primary ingredient in most liquid skincare products, used to dissolve other ingredients.
🧪 PEG-4 / 聚乙二醇-4
Purpose: Humectant and solvent.
Concerns: Minimal; can occasionally cause mild irritation in broken or highly sensitive skin.
Notes: Helps dissolve other ingredients and keeps the product from drying out.
🧪 MINERAL OIL / 矿油
Purpose: Emollient and occlusive barrier agent.
Concerns: Can feel heavy and may clog pores (comedogenic) for those with oily or acne-prone skin.
Notes: Highly refined cosmetic-grade mineral oil is extremely safe, non-irritating, and highly effective for dry and sensitive skin.
🧪 CERESIN / 地蜡
Purpose: Viscosity controller and binder.
Concerns: None.
Notes: A mineral-derived wax that helps solidify and stabilize the cream texture.
🧪 BEESWAX / 蜂蜡
Purpose: Emollient, thickening agent, and emulsifier.
Concerns: May be mildly comedogenic for individuals with very oily or acne-prone skin.
Notes: A natural wax that creates a protective barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.
🧪 CETYL ALCOHOL / 鲸蜡醇
Purpose: Emollient, emulsion stabilizer, and thickener.
Concerns: None.
Notes: A fatty alcohol that is non-drying and helps soften the skin while giving the cream its rich texture.
🧪 LIGNOCERIC ACID / 二十四烷酸
Purpose: Emollient.
Concerns: None.
Notes: A saturated fatty acid naturally found in lipids that helps maintain the skin’s moisture barrier.
🧪 TRIETHANOLAMINE / 三乙醇胺
Purpose: pH adjuster and emulsifying surfactant.
Concerns: Can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. May react with other chemicals to form nitrosamines.
Notes: Usually used in small amounts to neutralize acidic components like carbomer or to emulsify fatty acids.
🧪 BEHENIC ACID / 山嵛酸
Purpose: Surfactant, emulsifying agent, and opacifier.
Concerns: Minimal.
Notes: A fatty acid that aids in the cleaning process and helps structure the emulsion.
🧪 CETETH-20 / 鲸蜡醇聚醚-20
Purpose: Surfactant and emulsifying agent.
Concerns: Potential irritation in damaged skin; ethoxylated compound (though cosmetic-grade is safe).
Notes: Helps blend oil and water components together into a smooth emulsion.
🧪 ARACHIDIC ACID / 花生酸
Purpose: Surfactant and cleansing agent.
Concerns: Minimal.
Notes: A fatty acid that aids in emulsifying and mild cleansing.
🧪 STEARIC ACID / 硬脂酸
Purpose: Surfactant, emulsifier, and emollient.
Concerns: Can be slightly comedogenic for acne-prone skin.
Notes: A highly common fatty acid that helps emulsify creams and provides a smooth texture.
🧪 PEG-4 DILAURATE / PEG-4 二月桂酸酯
Purpose: Surfactant and emulsifying agent.
Concerns: Ethoxylated compound (minimal concerns when purified).
Notes: Assists in stabilizing the mixture and facilitating easier rinse-off.
🧪 PEG-4 LAURATE / PEG-4 月桂酸酯
Purpose: Surfactant, cleansing, and emulsifying agent.
Concerns: Minimal.
Notes: Helps wash away dirt and oils when rinsed with water.
🧪 CARBOMER / 卡波姆
Purpose: Viscosity controlling and gelling agent.
Concerns: None.
Notes: An ingredient commonly used to create gel-like textures and keep the product stable.
🧪 DISODIUM EDTA / 乙二胺四乙酸二钠
Purpose: Chelating agent.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Binds to metal ions to prevent formula discoloration, odor, and deterioration.
🧪 PHENOXYETHANOL / 苯氧乙醇
Purpose: Preservative.
Concerns: Can cause skin sensitization or irritation in high concentrations, though safe at regulated levels (<1%).
Notes: A widely used, gentle preservative that prevents bacterial growth.
🧪 IODOPROPYNYL BUTYLCARBAMATE / 碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯
Purpose: Preservative (antifungal).
Concerns: Can be a contact allergen; restricted in concentration and banned in leave-on products in some regions (safe for rinse-off).
Notes: Provides broad protection against mold and yeast in water-based cosmetics.
🧪 TOCOPHEROL / 生育酚
Purpose: Antioxidant and skin conditioning agent.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Also known as Vitamin E, it protects cosmetic oils from going rancid and provides mild anti-aging skin protection.
🧪 FRAGRANCE (PARFUM) / 香精
Purpose: Fragrance.
Concerns: Common cause of contact allergies, skin irritation, and sensitization.
Notes: An undisclosed blend of aroma chemicals used to scent the cleanser.
🧪 BENZYL BENZOATE / 苯甲酸苄酯
Purpose: Fragrance component and solvent.
Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.
Notes: Must be declared on ingredient labels in many regions due to potential allergic reactions.
🧪 CITRONELLOL / 香茅醇
Purpose: Fragrance compound (floral/rose aroma).
Concerns: Known allergen that can trigger contact dermatitis.
Notes: Naturally occurring in some essential oils; flagged as a potential allergen.
🧪 GERANIOL / 香叶醇
Purpose: Fragrance compound (rose-like scent).
Concerns: Known fragrance allergen.
Notes: Can cause irritation in individuals with sensitive skin.
🧪 TERPINEOL / 松油醇
Purpose: Fragrance component.
Concerns: May cause mild skin irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.
Notes: Has a lilac-like aroma and mild preservative-boosting properties.