This is a classic, heavy cold-cream cleanser loaded with traditional cooling agents like camphor, menthol, and eucalyptus oil, designed to dissolve makeup while delivering an intense, tingling sensation.
The formulation provides some emollient benefits due to Stearic Acid, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil, and Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, which help the cream glide smoothly over the skin. However, its performance as an effective cleanser is severely limited. Rather than using modern, gentle surfactants, it relies on a saponified soap base formed by alkaline agents like Ammonium Hydroxide and Calcium Hydroxide reacting with fatty acids. This creates a heavy cream that is difficult to rinse off and often leaves a persistent film. Furthermore, the perceived ‘deep clean’ is largely a sensory illusion caused by the tingling and cooling effects of Camphor, Menthol, and Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, which stimulate nerve endings without providing actual deep pore cleansing.
The safety profile of this product is highly concerning, earning a low score of 2.9/10. A major red flag is Phenol, an outdated antiseptic known to be toxic, cell-damaging, and highly irritating to the skin barrier. Additionally, the formula is loaded with known sensitizers and irritants like Camphor, Menthol, and Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, which frequently trigger contact dermatitis, burning, and redness. The inclusion of strong alkaline compounds such as Ammonium Hydroxide and Calcium Hydroxide can severely disrupt the skin’s naturally acidic pH, stripping the moisture barrier and causing long-term dryness and sensitivity, exacerbated further by synthetic Fragrance.
With a final score of 3.6/10, this product represents an outdated era of skincare formulation. While its heavy oils (Soybean and Linseed) offer some immediate emolliency, the extreme risk of skin irritation and barrier disruption makes it unsuitable for modern skincare routines. The combination of toxic and harsh ingredients like Phenol, irritating cooling agents like Camphor and Menthol, and high-pH alkaline buffers far outweighs any minimal cleansing benefits. Modern cleansers easily outperform this formulation by offering effective dirt removal without compromising safety and skin health.
This facial cleanser is a classic example of an old-school cold cream formulation, famously recognized for its thick, balm-like texture and its signature medicated aroma. At its foundation, the product utilizes a base of water, stearic acid, linseed oil, and soybean oil to dissolve heavy, oil-based impurities, waterproof makeup, and excess sebum. By incorporating alkaline buffering agents such as ammonium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide, the formula saponifies the stearic acid to create a rich, emulsified wash. This allows the heavy oils to spread smoothly across the face, breaking down dirt before being wiped or rinsed away, leaving behind a noticeable protective, moisturizing film. However, from the perspective of modern dermatology, this formulation is highly controversial and generally discouraged for daily facial care. The most glaring issue is the heavy concentration of powerful sensory irritants, specifically camphor, menthol, eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, and phenol. These ingredients are added to induce a sharp, cooling, and ‘tingling’ sensation. While traditionally marketed as a sign of deep-pore purification, this tingle is actually a form of contact irritation and a warning sign from the skin barrier. Menthol and camphor trigger cold-sensitive receptors and dilate blood vessels, which can exacerbate facial redness, trigger rosacea flares, and lead to chronic dryness. Eucalyptus oil, while smelling refreshingly herbal, contains volatile compounds like limonene that are notorious contact allergens. Even more concerning is the presence of phenol, an old-fashioned antiseptic that is rarely used in contemporary skincare due to its high potential for toxicity, severe irritation, and subsequent regulatory bans or strict restrictions in cosmetic markets like the European Union. Additionally, the formula contains synthetic fragrance, compounding the risk of allergic contact dermatitis. The inclusion of heavy vegetable lipids like soybean oil and linseed oil also makes this cleanser highly comedogenic, meaning it is highly likely to congest pores and worsen acne. Ultimately, while this iconic cream may effectively melt away stage makeup or heavy cosmetics for those with exceptionally resilient, non-reactive, and extremely dry skin, it poses too many risks of irritation, barrier disruption, and breakouts to be recommended as a safe, daily cleanser for most individuals.
🧪 Water / 水
Purpose: Primary solvent used as a base for the formula.
Concerns: None.
Notes: Essential for dissolving water-soluble ingredients.
🧪 Propylene Glycol / 丙二醇
Purpose: Humectant and solvent.
Concerns: May cause mild skin irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals.
Notes: Helps the skin absorb other ingredients and retain moisture.
🧪 Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil / 亚麻籽油
Purpose: Emollient and skin conditioner.
Concerns: Highly comedogenic, which can clog pores for acne-prone skin.
Notes: Rich in nourishing omega-3 fatty acids.
🧪 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil / 大豆油
Purpose: Skin conditioning emollient.
Concerns: Can be mildly comedogenic for some skin types.
Notes: Rich in antioxidants and fatty acids.
🧪 Stearic Acid / 硬脂酸
Purpose: Emulsifier and cleansing agent.
Concerns: Can be comedogenic (pore-clogging) for acne-prone skin.
Notes: A natural fatty acid that helps bind water and oil together.
🧪 Camphor / 樟脑
Purpose: Provides a cooling, anesthetic sensation.
Concerns: Can be highly irritating or sensitizing to sensitive skin.
Notes: Gives the signature tingling effect to the cleanser.
🧪 Menthol / 薄荷醇
Purpose: Cooling agent and fragrance.
Concerns: Known skin sensitizer that can cause irritation, redness, or burning in sensitive skin.
Notes: Provides a strong cooling sensation.
🧪 Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil / 蓝桉叶油
Purpose: Fragrance and antimicrobial agent.
Concerns: Potential contact allergen that may cause irritation for sensitive skin.
Notes: Provides a fresh, herbal scent.
🧪 Fragrance / 香精
Purpose: Masking odor and adding scent.
Concerns: High potential for skin irritation and allergic reactions.
Notes: Synthetic or natural aromatic compound blend.
🧪 Phenol / 苯酚
Purpose: Antiseptic and preservative.
Concerns: Highly regulated and restricted in cosmetics due to potential toxicity and irritation.
Notes: Historically used in this traditional formula for its numbing and cleansing effects.
🧪 Gelatin / 明胶
Purpose: Gelling agent and thickener.
Concerns: Animal-derived, making it unsuitable for vegan formulas.
Notes: Gives the product its unique bouncy cream texture.
🧪 Ammonium Hydroxide / 氢氧化铵
Purpose: pH adjuster and saponification agent.
Concerns: Can be irritating to eyes and skin if not fully neutralized in formulation.
Notes: Used to react with stearic acid to form emulsifying soaps.
🧪 Calcium Hydroxide / 氢氧化钙
Purpose: pH adjuster.
Concerns: Highly alkaline in raw form, but safe in finalized cosmetic concentrations.
Notes: Used in small amounts to balance formula pH.
🧪 Sodium Bicarbonate / 碳酸氢钠
Purpose: pH buffering agent.
Concerns: Alkaline nature can sometimes disrupt the skin barrier if used in high concentrations.
Notes: Commonly known as baking soda.
🧪 Calcium Chloride / 氯化钙
Purpose: Viscosity controlling and emulsion stabilizer.
Concerns: No significant concerns in cosmetic concentrations.
Notes: Helps maintain the structural stability of the cream.
🧪 Magnesium Sulfate / 硫酸镁
Purpose: Emulsion stabilizer.
Concerns: No significant concerns.
Notes: Commonly known as Epsom salt; helps stabilize water-in-oil formulations.
🧪 Potassium Chloride / 氯化钾
Purpose: Viscosity controlling agent.
Concerns: No significant concerns.
Notes: Helps thicken and stabilize the emulsion.