A classic medicated cleansing cream that utilizes cooling aromatic oils and an emollient base to provide a refreshing, deep-pore clean.
This cleanser employs a cream-based formula utilizing linseed and soybean oils to dissolve surface debris and light makeup. The inclusion of camphor, menthol, and eucalyptus provides a distinct cooling sensation often perceived as a deep clean, though this is largely sensory. It works well as a moisturizing cleanser for dry skin but may leave a waxy film or fail to remove heavy, long-wear cosmetics.
The ingredient profile contains several concerning components, most notably phenol, an antiseptic that can be corrosive and irritating to the skin. The presence of ammonium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide suggests a high pH level, which can compromise the skin’s natural acid mantle. Furthermore, the combination of fragrance, menthol, and camphor presents a high risk for contact dermatitis and irritation, particularly near the eyes.
While this is a traditional, iconic formula, it is significantly dated compared to modern dermatological standards. It offers effective emolliency for a budget price, but the potential for skin sensitization and the inclusion of harsh pH adjusters make it a risky choice for users with sensitive or acne-prone skin. Modern, pH-balanced surfactants provide a safer and more effective cleansing experience.
This formulation is a quintessential example of a medicated deep cleanser, heavily reminiscent of traditional “cold cream” formulas but with a distinct, old-school antiseptic edge. The primary cleansing mechanism relies on a base of Stearic Acid paired with Linseed and Soybean oils. These plant-based emollients work to dissolve sebum, makeup, and environmental pollutants through oil-to-oil interaction, allowing the product to clean the skin without the stripping effect of modern sulfate-based surfactants. The texture is notoriously thick and creamy, thanks to the addition of Gelatin, providing a luxurious and substantial feel during application. However, the defining characteristic of this cleanser is undoubtedly its intense sensory profile. The combination of Camphor, Menthol, and Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil creates a powerful cooling sensation and a medicinal aroma that is instantly recognizable. While many users find this “tingle” to be the ultimate sign of a successful deep clean, these ingredients are potent sensitizers. They can cause significant irritation, stinging, or redness, especially for those with sensitive skin or when used around the delicate eye area. The inclusion of Phenol further underscores the product’s therapeutic intentions, acting as an antiseptic to help manage surface bacteria, though its presence is less common in contemporary skincare due to its potential for drying out the epidermis. The chemical structure of the product is also notable for its use of alkaline agents like Ammonium Hydroxide, Calcium Hydroxide, and Sodium Bicarbonate. These components work to adjust the pH, often resulting in a formula that helps to soften the skin’s outer layer and open up the pores for a more thorough evacuation of debris. While effective for oily and congested skin, this alkaline nature can potentially disrupt the skin’s natural acid mantle, leading to temporary dryness if not followed by a proper moisturizer. Furthermore, the inclusion of various electrolytes like Magnesium Sulfate, Potassium Chloride, and Calcium Chloride adds a mineralized aspect to the wash, which may provide slight astringent benefits. In summary, this is a robust and nostalgic cleanser designed for a very specific user. It excels at refreshing the skin and removing heavy impurities, making it a favorite for those with resilient, oily complexions. However, because of the high concentration of aromatic oils and alkaline substances, it is not a universal product. It is a time-tested classic that offers a unique, invigorating experience, provided your skin barrier is strong enough to handle the medicinal activity.
🧪 Water / 水
Purpose: Solvent
Concerns: None
Notes: The primary vehicle for the formula.
🧪 Propylene Glycol / 丙二醇
Purpose: Humectant and Solvent
Concerns: Potential skin irritation or allergy in sensitive individuals
Notes: Helps the skin retain moisture and improves product penetration.
🧪 Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil / 亚麻籽油
Purpose: Emollient
Concerns: Can be comedogenic for acne-prone skin
Notes: Rich in fatty acids to nourish the skin barrier.
🧪 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil / 大豆油
Purpose: Emollient
Concerns: Potential comedogenicity
Notes: Contains antioxidants and helps smooth the skin.
🧪 Stearic Acid / 硬脂酸
Purpose: Surfactant and Thickener
Concerns: May be comedogenic
Notes: Helps cleanse the skin and provides a creamy texture.
🧪 Gelatin / 明胶
Purpose: Viscosity Increasing Agent
Concerns: Animal-derived ingredient
Notes: Used to stabilize the consistency of the product.
🧪 Camphor / 樟脑
Purpose: Cooling and Antiseptic
Concerns: Potential skin sensitizer
Notes: Provides a distinct medicinal scent and cooling feel.
🧪 Menthol / 薄荷醇
Purpose: Cooling and Refreshing
Concerns: Can be irritating to eyes and sensitive skin
Notes: Derived from peppermint, provides a tingling sensation.
🧪 Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil / 蓝桉叶油
Purpose: Fragrance and Skin Conditioning
Concerns: Contains volatile compounds that may cause sensitivity
Notes: Often used for its refreshing and clarifying properties.
🧪 Ammonium Hydroxide / 氢氧化铵
Purpose: pH Adjuster
Concerns: Irritating in high concentrations
Notes: Used to balance the acidity of the formula.
🧪 Calcium Hydroxide / 氢氧化钙
Purpose: pH Adjuster
Concerns: Highly alkaline
Notes: Typically used to neutralize acidic components.
🧪 Sodium Bicarbonate / 碳酸氢钠
Purpose: Buffering Agent
Concerns: Minimal
Notes: Commonly known as baking soda; helps maintain pH stability.
🧪 Calcium Chloride / 氯化钙
Purpose: Viscosity Control
Concerns: Minimal
Notes: Helps stabilize the emulsion structure.
🧪 Magnesium Sulfate / 硫酸镁
Purpose: Viscosity Control
Concerns: Minimal
Notes: Also known as Epsom salt; affects product thickness.
🧪 Potassium Chloride / 氯化钾
Purpose: Viscosity Control
Concerns: Minimal
Notes: Acts as an electrolyte to adjust texture.
🧪 Fragrance / 香精
Purpose: Masking agent
Concerns: Frequent cause of contact dermatitis
Notes: Provides the characteristic scent of the product.
🧪 Phenol / 苯酚
Purpose: Preservative and Antiseptic
Concerns: Potentially toxic and irritating; strictly regulated
Notes: A traditional ingredient found in older medicated cleanser formulations.